Route Name: stEEp niBLetz, 5.13

Application Status:

Application Cycle: 2010

Rock Formation: The Slab

Number of lead bolts to be placed:

Number of anchor bolts to be placed:

Route Difficulty:5.12

Route Diagrams:

Proposed Route:

This is a proposed new climb on the west side of the Slab, Fern Canyon, and will add a new pitch atop the existing climb Pen 15. The crux of stEEp niBLetz looks to be leaving the belay ledge via a hard boulder problem; the applicants were able to ascertain, via climbing up into the boulder problem and rappelling the pitch multiple times, that you'd either climb directly off the belay ledge (solid line in the attached route photo) or come in from a flake on the left (dotted line). In either case, from there the route will climb 5.12 on positive holds and diagonal slashes, either finishing straight up (solid line) on another very hard (5.13/13+) boulder problem, or continuing slightly right (dotted line) into the grey-green water streak. The rock on this upper headwall is very clean.

Name Meaning:

Not provided

Existing Route Information

Existing Route Diagrams

A description of the approach (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails leading to the climb and condition of the trail, and state whether there is a durable surface, such as rock.

The staging area is a flat piece of ground below the west face, along the approach trail up to Undertow/Sweet Niblets.

If different from the approach, a description of the descent, (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails, a description of the trail condition and whether there is a durable surface, such as rock. Include photographs of the descent.):

Not provided

A description of the area at the base of the climb (include existing levels of soil compaction, existence of a durable surface such as rock, and existing soil erosion. Include photographs of the area at the base of the climb.):

The staging area is a flat piece of ground below the west face, along the approach trail up to Undertow/Sweet Niblets.

Has all reconnaissance work that can be reasonably done, short of placing any hardware, been done?

Base Area Photos

Has the route been top roped? Is there loose rock? Is it extremely overhanging?

Due to the severely overhanging angle of stEEp niBLetz (30 degrees overhanging), and the lack of directional gear on the lower half of this top pitch, were unable to do the moves. Since the directional (toproping) gear was shaky at best, and only got the applicants halfway down the pitch, they request the use of two to three removable Triplex bolts (RBs) on the lower half.

Any additional notes:

They plan to place the top anchor in a permanent, central location left of a body-sized hueco/pod such that they can easily, on toprope, determine the most logical finish. That is, either finish will end up at this logical stopping point. Since the directional (toproping) gear was shaky at best, and only got the applicants halfway down the pitch, they request the use of two to three removable Triplex bolts (RBs) on the lower half so as to determine the best, most logical sequence off the ledge. Once they have ascertained the best line, they will remove these bolts and patch the holes. The five or six other clipping spots should be easy to figure out initially, meaning the applicants can install some permanent protection from the get-go. This is an excellent, physical, very overhanging addition on perfect rock to this back (west) side of the Slab, and a logical second pitch to Pen 15, the first line freed on this major part of the wall. --- Additional (unmatched) --- A public meeting will be held on April 28, 2010 at 6:30 pm at Movement Climbing + Fitness in Boulder to discuss and vote on this new-route application. While emailed comments are taken into consideration during the public meeting they do not count as a vote. FHRC Overview of the application: Complete