Route Name: Rikki-Rikki-Tavi

Application Status: Approved

Application Cycle: 2024

Rock Formation: Overhang Rock

Number of lead bolts to be placed: 17

Number of anchor bolts to be placed: 2

Route Difficulty:5.13

Route Diagrams:

Proposed Route:

The proposed route ascends the west face of Overhang Rock, between existing routes Honey Badger and Tits Out for the Lads (TOFTL). The route starts about 15-20 ft left of TOFTL, going up some introductory 5.11 climbing to a small ledge. The climber then launches up the 5.12 slab to a difficult and technical boulder problem (V6 ish). More techy slab on excellent rock leads to a small roof with jugs on the lip. More difficult 5.12 slab climbing leads up to a massive roof at the top of the wall. The roof is bypassed slightly right of the bolt line in a weakness, above and to the left of the anchor for TOFTL. The climber then climbs the lip of the roof back slightly left, and finishes on a difficult redpoint crux. Finally, jugs lead up and slightly left to the anchor.

Name Meaning:

The route name, Rikki-Tikki-Tavi, is a reference to the classic 1894 short story by Rudyard Kipling about adventures of a valiant young Indian grey mongoose in his struggles against several snakes in a garden in which he lives. The name fits into the theme of snakes and badgers established by other routes on the wall.

Existing Route Information

Existing Route Diagrams

A description of the approach (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails leading to the climb and condition of the trail, and state whether there is a durable surface, such as rock.

Approach from the Bear Canyon Trailhead. Hike up Bear Canyon Trail all the way to the established Overhang Rock climber’s trail, about 500 ft after the Bear Canyon Trail turns west into Bear Canyon. The climber’s trail heads up south and back east towards the base of the west face of Overhang Rock. The climber’s trail is well established, and the base of the west face around the proposed route is solid rock (route starts on the ledge left of TOFTL)

If different from the approach, a description of the descent, (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails, a description of the trail condition and whether there is a durable surface, such as rock. Include photographs of the descent.):

Climbers descend by lowering off the route with a 70 m rope and reversing the approach in.

A description of the area at the base of the climb (include existing levels of soil compaction, existence of a durable surface such as rock, and existing soil erosion. Include photographs of the area at the base of the climb.):

The base of the climb is a solid rock ledge. The belayer can stand directly below the proposed route on the ledge, or further down near the base of Honey Badger (if no one is climbing Honey Badger) .

Has all reconnaissance work that can be reasonably done, short of placing any hardware, been done?

Base Area Photos

Has the route been top roped? Is there loose rock? Is it extremely overhanging?

Yes – the route has been mostly freed on TR. The route is not too overhanging other than the large roof on top of the route. The rock is incredibly good for the area, and requires minimal cleaning.

Any additional notes:

This route is in character with the other routes on the wall, and would be a great addition for climbers that have completed other climbs on the wall, or for when the other routes are busy. The route is completely independent and does not cross or interfere with any of the other existing routes.