Route Name: Skunked

Application Status: Approved

Application Cycle: 2022

Rock Formation: Ridge One

Number of lead bolts to be placed: 13

Number of anchor bolts to be placed: 2

Route Difficulty:5.14

Route Diagrams:

  • Route Name: Heaven and Hell Route Name: Heaven and Hell Rock Formation: Ridge 1, Skunk Canyon Number of bolts to be placed: 12-14 lead bolts, 2 bolt anchor Route Difficulty: 5.14 Route Description: This new route climbs the overhang on the west face of the summit tower at the top of Ridge One (Stairway to Heaven) in Skunk Canyon. The easier variation of the route will step off a rock pillar near the southwest edge of the wall and continue up a yellow lichen streak to a steep scoop (5 bolts). From there, the route will continue up the headwall on the vertical face for about 5 more bolts. The line measures about 25 meters long. An additional start will be added at time of development in the cave below the belay area (3 bolts). This cave will add about 25’ of climbing on very overhanging terrain that is too high to boulder out, above the floor of the slot/cave. We’re giving a suggested rating of 5.13- for the stand start and 5.14- for the cave start. This new route will not interfere with the “Stairway to Heaven” route, which summits the feature on its east face/southeast ridge, and anchors will be placed low enough on the headwall so as not to be visible from or usable from Stairway. The route name is in keeping with the theme of the formation, as Ridge 1’s aka is “Stairway to Heaven”. This beautifully streaked wall connected to the difficult cave start will offer a combination of glorious climbing paired with a burly and difficult boulder problem. Hence Heaven and Hell. A description of existing routes on the same face of the rock formation, including the number of routes, route names, route grade, type, and approximate distance between routes (a photocopy or diagram of the existing route(s) is also required): The route to the left is “God’s Kingdom on Earth” (5.12b/c). Left of that route is the proposed route “Skunked” (5.14; June 2022 application cycle). Up the hill is the trad line “Like Hell It Is” (5.11a), which traverses a break on the far left side of this wall. The route “Stairway to Heaven” (5.2) climbs over on the east- and south-facing sides of this formation. Close-up of the “cave” start:

Proposed Route:

Skunked climbs a very overhanging corner system in the middle of the west face of the summit tower of Ridge 1/Stairway to Heaven in Skunk Canyon. It begins with big moves in hueco pockets before a hard-looking boulder problem leads into a series of faint corners leading up the middle of the wall. At the top it moves slightly left onto an undercling feature out a hanging arête, and will finish just over the arête, at the lip of the wall. The route looks continuous, difficult, and bouldery, with small crack, layback, flake, crimp, and undercling features at a continuous 30-degree-overhanging angle. It is about 90 feet long and looks to be 5.1

 

Name Meaning:

The intended route name is just a play off of Skunk Canyon, and the slang term for when something goes wrong in life or out climbing: “We got skunked!”

 

Existing Route Information

This route begins where the new route God’s Kingdom on Earth begins. When God’s Kingdom traverses right, Skunked continues straight up. There is an existing trad route, Like Hell It Is 5.11, on the NW corner of the formation about 50’ to the left. About 25’ right of this line is a trad route called Sidereal 5.10x which traverses hard right as soon as leaving the ground and doesn’t come near this proposed route again. Further right is a trad route named Seventh Inning Stretch 5.11d, then the route Boot Hill 5.8x. There is one final trad route on this section of the ridge, In God We Trust 5.10x (probably not x since the 1 bolt was upgraded). The existing traditional multi-pitch/traditional climb Stairway to Heaven (5.2) takes the spine of the formation, along its south/southeast ridge, to finish at the summit of the Ridge One formation above this wall.

Existing Route Diagrams

 

 

 

A description of the approach (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails leading to the climb and condition of the trail, and state whether there is a durable surface, such as rock.

The approach is via NCAR. Take the Mallory Cave Trail west to the Mesa Trail; head north to where the Mesa Trail traverses across Skunk Canyon. Head west into Skunk Canyon on the climber’s approach trail, then head due north up the gully east of Hillbilly Rock to reach the south then west side of Hillbilly Rock on an existing climber’s trail. From here, you can continue on the Stairway to Heaven (Ridge 1) descent trail to a shoulder just north of the wall, then drop down the gully to the climbing (~100 feet).

 

 

 

If different from the approach, a description of the descent, (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails, a description of the trail condition and whether there is a durable surface, such as rock. Include photographs of the descent.):

Descent from the climb is to lower back to the staging area and hiking out on the same trail as the approach.

A description of the area at the base of the climb (include existing levels of soil compaction, existence of a durable surface such as rock, and existing soil erosion. Include photographs of the area at the base of the climb.):

 

The staging area is compact dirt and rock with very little existing vegetation.

 

 

Has all reconnaissance work that can be reasonably done, short of placing any hardware, been done?

Base Area Photos

Has the route been top roped? Is there loose rock? Is it extremely overhanging?

Not provided

Any additional notes:

4-5 fixed draws to help with cleaning

 

7 replies
  7. Joseph Crotty
    Joseph Crotty says:

    Very steep routes, albeit short, are impossible to preview and are a bit of like trying to catch lighting in a bottle when applying for an application. Many thanks to the applicants vision and future work. And a heart felt yes vote that their labors bear fruit.

    Reply

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