Leave a Reply
Want to join the discussion?Feel free to contribute!
Route Name: Mystery Solved
Application Status: Approved
Application Cycle: 2022
Rock Formation: Third Flatiron
Number of lead bolts to be placed: 8
Number of anchor bolts to be placed: 2
Route Difficulty:5.11 b/c
Route Diagrams:
Proposed Route:
This route goes up the center of the prominent wall directly behind The WC Fields Pinnacle. Historically this route has been documented as Two Bolt Mystery route. It is also believed that the route was never finished. In its current state, there are 2 lead bolts and 3 old anchor bolts on top. All of which would be removed and patched. The new route will start 10 feet right of Panda Rigalo and angle left toward the current first bolt. Then the climb will exit the wall about 15’ down and right of the old anchor. This new path will avoid the poor quality rock that likely caused the route to be abandoned 40 years ago. The improved route will be about 5.11b/c and a great addition to this fun area.
Name Meaning:
The name removes the question of weather there is a climb here.
Existing Route Information
The Third Flatiron is home to many routes of all variety. This route is on the large face directly behind the WC Fields Pinnacle. This buttress has a few routes already: Uphill to the west and around the corner is the trad route Soarks 5.10, a scary direct finish to Soarks called Funny Games 5.12d R and a sport route called Holier Than Thou 5.11c. Just left of this route is the bolted route Panda Rigalo 5.11 (see photo). These two routes will share the staging area.Existing Route Diagrams
A description of the approach (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails leading to the climb and condition of the trail, and state whether there is a durable surface, such as rock.
Follow the Royal Arch trail until the point where the New re-route meets the Old re-route. This spot is directly across from the WC Fields Pinnacle. Looking SW you can see a buckrail fence blocking the “Old” Royal Arch trail. Follow the old trail South for 100 feet until the obvious crossing of the drainage. There is a climber trail that leads up the South side of WC Fields Pinnacle. After a short uphill hike the trail leads directly to this buttress.
If different from the approach, a description of the descent, (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails, a description of the trail condition and whether there is a durable surface, such as rock. Include photographs of the descent.):
Descent from the climb is to lower back to the staging area and hiking out on the same trail as the approach.
A description of the area at the base of the climb (include existing levels of soil compaction, existence of a durable surface such as rock, and existing soil erosion. Include photographs of the area at the base of the climb.):
The staging area is mostly solid rock.
Has all reconnaissance work that can be reasonably done, short of placing any hardware, been done?
Base Area Photos
Has the route been top roped? Is there loose rock? Is it extremely overhanging?
The route has been top roped extensively to find the best line.
Any additional notes:
Not provided
Looks rad! Makes for a fun full day of sunny cragging for the 5.11 climber. All in favor of that!
Looks good. I remember trying to “lead” this years ago, ground-up, with cams and stuff in huecos. I didn’t get very far, and always felt that it needed to be fully bolted, or it was just a dumb death route. I vote yes
Yes to more Flatirons 5.11’s always. Seems logical given the other route right next door.
I checked out this face last summer and it definitely could use a proper sport route. Love it! A resounding yes.