2004 Route Applications
Hell Freezes Over, 5.10a/12a
February 29, 2004
Dinosaur Mountain, Red Devil South Face
Application date: 2/29/04
Information from the applicant: The proposed route is a nice 5.11+, 2 stars out of a three star system. The first pitch is a long 5.10 pitch (approx 100′) with good holds. It ends at a big ledge. The only natural gear placements were two potential cam placements behind loose flakes. Neither were good placements and a fall would most likley result in ripping the flakes and the pieces. 11 bolts plus 2 for anchors.
The second pitch is recessed about 15′ from the top of the first pitch, making a link-up of the two pitches very difficult due to rope-drag. The drag would be hideous and the belay on the ledge sunny and warm with great views. The second pitch is about 45′ long and has high quality, significantly harder climbing (11+). There is a possible shallow horizontal cam placement in a crack between the first and second protection bolts on this pitch. The bolt locations are several feet above and below this potential placement. 5 bolts plus 2 for anchors.
FHRC Overview of the application: Approved
Voting Results: Approved
OSMP Decision: Approved
Public Comments: Approved