Family Man, 5.12a
August 14, 2007
The Slab, West Face
Application date: 8/14/07
Information from the applicant:
The proposed route is on the West Face of the Slab, located about fifteen feet to the left of the route Boys With Power Toys. It is an independent line that does not encroach on the adjacent routes. It takes an obvious line through three successive overhangs at the obvious left facing flakes and small corners. The overall difficulty will be about 5.11d/12a with one distinct technical crux through the third overhang. The majority of the climb is sustained 5.9 through 5.11+ climbing. The face above the technical crux is less than vertical but offers about 30 feet of pleasant 5.10 face climbing to the proposed anchors at the top rim of the face. The route is approximately 95 feet long with a proposal for 12 protection bolts for the climbing and two additional bolts for the anchors. Natural gear placements are very limited and do not offer safe alternatives to the proposed bolt placements.
The route has been top roped and inspected for rock and climbing quality. For the most part the rock is solid and relatively clean and free of lichen and loose rock, any potential holds breaking will not detract from the climbing or increase the general technical difficulty of the route. The first overhang passes through a typical Flatirons fractured rock band, but in general suspect rock can be avoided when climbing and locating the bolts.
FHRC Overview of the application: Approved
Voting Results: Approved
OSMP Decision: Approved
Looks like a great line — fire it in!
Yes to the route, no to the bolt count. Does not match the bolting characteristic of the other routes in the area
Yes, looks good.
The spacing of bolt placements on this route IS similar to the other sport routes on the Slab. But this line will be carried from the ground to the very top of the cliff, hence 12 bolts.
the bolting is NOT similar to the other sport routes on teh Slab. 12 bolts plus anchors, 90ft = too much
why was my comment about the bolts removed from this site? I thought this was where we discussed these issues.
As shown on the upper photo this route is about 30-35 ft longer than Boys w/ Power Toys and has only 3 more bolts than Boys…
go for it
looks great. would be a nice addition to an already great crag.keep up the motivation.
great addition to this area. It looks like it will be a great route and the bolt count is similar to other routes in the area.
looks good. go for it! seems to be bolted reasonably well.
Ho Hum. Yet another climb that can be top-roped which someone wants to bolt for glory. No to the bolts! Top-rope it or solo it or please climb elsewhere and leave the rock unmolested.
This looks like a terrific addition to the wall. The number of bolts appears to be in keeping with the surrounding routes. It should be noted that the other routes also accept additional traditional protection. It does not look like this route does. Thus the total number of good pieces of protection is quite similar. This route should be approved.
Looks cool! A great addition to the crag. However, 12 bolts in 90 ft is a lot for the Flatirons. Undertow just up the hill is 6 bolts in 70 feet. Not sure how credible the statement is above comparing to B.W.P.T.
Looks like a great route, with safe bolt spacing.
Sounds great – drill it in!
Bolts are safer and permit faster climbing. Why top rope and hang like a dog?
Do it, looks great.
the flatirons have plenty of routes, I say NO MORE
Looks like a good route…go for it.
Looks like a great route…I say yes!
looks likea good line, go for it
12 bolts in 95 feet is excessive, especially in the Flatirons. I would like to see the bolt count reduced by at least 2-3 bolts.
Yes, but… Lots of bolts, please reconsider the count. And when I checked out the route, it appeared that some of the markings were on or near to some questionable rock. Please be sure to place bolts in good rock and good rock only. The last thing you need to see after an unexpectedly long lead fall (made long by a bolt pulling) is a brick sized peice of rock zinging down at you, clipped 6″ from the rope so as to be sure to hit you in the head or face. Would be better not to have that one at all.
It looks good, i think you shoulld do it.
I cant believe people actually feel the need to comment on the # of bolts…will 2 or 3 less really make that big of a difference to the “impact”? Make it safe in my book.
Yes, if bolted with same character as older testpieces on the Slab…
Looks like a good addition
NO. Too many bolts.
Outstanding on TR, would be great with the proposed bolts.
Yes, 12 bolts in 95 feet of 5.11-5.12 seems like a reasonable number
I support bolting the route as described. More so, I support the process of receiving public comment in a forum such as this one. Carry on…
Looks decent enough. I vote yes
looks like a good line. already a nice area but with limited lines. this could be a worthy addition.
Yes, the bolt count seems in line with the terrain.
Yes! This looks pretty sweet
Good addition to the area.Yes
Looks great. I vote yes.