2009 Applications

The Shaft, 5.12b

June 15, 2009

Dinosaur Rock, North Face
Application date: 6/15/09


Information from the applicant:
The proposed route (90 feet) is on the North Face of Dinosaur Rock and starts 40 feet down and to climber’s left of the existing route Milk Bone (the first climb approved on the formation). It shares its start with the existing toprope Patience Face but where the latter climb moves right, The Shaft goes straight up on an extruded tufa-like feature.

The route has been red-pointed on top-rope and thoroughly inspected for best choice of protection. The route offers only one marginal C3 placement, used as a TR directional, in friable rock down low, with no other traditional/natural gear placements, and it is recommended that bolts/hangers be used for protection. The proposal is to use 9 or 10 stainless-steel half-inch bolts plus a 2-bolt anchor. The accompanying photo indicates bolt locations.

The route starts with a 5.11/11+ sequence to cross a hanging flake into the groove, then climbs more 5.11/11+ climbing up the groove, over a small roof, and up a clean face to a no-hands rest (where Patience Face moves right). The upper half of the climb engages the tufa via gymnastic movement (5.12) on large, sloping holds on overhanging rock, finishing via easier face climbing (5.10/11) toward the top of the wall. The rock quality is excellent, and only brushing was needed to make the route safe and clean.

The route offers shady 5.12 climbing on perfect stone without compromising any existing routes or adding impact to the crag base – it’s directly off the Mallory Cave Trail on a rock approved for new routes, and will share the staging area with Milk Bone, already approved.

FHRC Overview of the application: Complete
Voting Results: Approved
OSMP Decision: Approved

Pretty in Pinkler, 5.11c

June 15, 2009

Dinosaur Rock, North Face
Application date: 6/15/09


Information from the applicant:
The proposed route (60 feet) is on lower left side (east) of the North Face of the Dinosaur Rock, climbing grey-green stone to the apex of a small pillar formation on that part of the face. The crux is turning the lip of a small bowl at one-third height, but the route is sustained throughout, and never easier than 5.10.

The route has been redpointed on toprope and thoroughly inspected for best choice of protection. The route offers zero traditional/natural gear placements and it is recommended that bolts/hangers be used for protection. The proposal is to use circa 7 stainless-steel half-inch bolts plus a 2-bolt anchor. The anchor will likely go at the point of the pillar, but if the rock there proves to be too hollow, it will need to be situated either above the ledge formed by the pillar (for rope drag) or slightly lower on the pillar horn itself, possibly a hair to climber’s right. The accompanying photo indicates bolt locations.

The route starts out off a small block/ledge and jumps right into sustained crimping, largely on solid incuts. The first two or three bolts will need to be spaced closely here, to protect against ledge fall. The route then moves slightly right into a bowl and encounters the crux, getting up and over the bowl’s lip. From there, sustained 5.10+/11- climbing takes you on wavy stone to the top of the pillar. The rock quality is excellent in general, and only brushing was needed to make the route safe and clean.

The route offers sustained 5.11 without compromising any existing routes or adding impact to the crag base – it’s directly above the same staging area as the new route Milk Bone and the applied-for route The Shaft, directly off Mallory Cave trail.

FHRC Overview of the application: Complete
Voting Results: Approved
OSMP Decision: Approved

New 5.13c, Dinosaur Rock, North Face

June 15, 2009

Dinosaur Rock, North Face
Application date: 6/15/09


Information from the applicant:
The proposed route (120 feet) is on the North Face of Dinosaur Rock, taking the major line of strength from the toe of the wall to the summit of the formation. The applicant has spent one day on the route, trying it on toprope, but gave up due to the severely overhanging nature of the wall creating an injurious, nearly lethal (tree-branch-impalement) swing off the climb.

During this exploratory session, the applicant climbed the middle third of the route, from the lip of the big roof halfway up the headwall, at 5.12-, and was able, hanging on the rope, to inspect the rest of the line and to ascertain that it is possible as a free climb.

The route will begin on the first two bolts of Milk Bone to the rounded boss ledge. From there, it moves right up the double-overhanging, right-leaning corner for 30 feet (estimated: 5.12+), under the roof band. Applicant, hanging on the rope, was able to see a solid set of holds leading out and over the lip at V7/8 (5.13/13+) to better pocket-holes, from where he freed the next 40 feet at 5.12-. Stepping right into the scoop high on the headwall, the route will continue in the black streak (featured, with small holds) that runs straight down from the apex of the wall, finishing at double-bolt anchors just left of the point. The estimated difficulty on this upper section is 5.12+/13-.

The climb will be an endurance undertaking, given that it probably overhangs 40 feet in 120. Some loose rock will need to be removed on the overhanging corner to make the climb safe. Applicant proposes installing top anchors and 5 or 6 directional bolts (using removable Triplex bolts) to be able to safely try the line on toprope, clean the holds, and ascertain the best and safest line of ascent. Once that’s clear, he’ll install the rest of the hardware (total clips, likely 14, including the first two on Milk Bone) and attempt a lead.

The route offers wildly sustained, overhanging climbing on one of Dinosaur Mountain’s major features. It will be a modern testpiece, given its “rope-stretching” length, and a good endurance undertaking for hotter weather. The staging area will be the same as for Milk Bone, a platform in the trees just off the Mallory Cave Trail. There is no possibility for reliable natural protection, and the applicant proposes using all-stainless half-inch hardware.

FHRC Overview of the application: Complete
Voting Results: Approved
OSMP Decision: Pending

Pen 15, 5.12a

June 15, 2009

The Slab, West Face
Application date: 6/15/09


Route Information Since Installation
Nine bolts to a double-bolt anchor.

Information from the applicant:
The proposed route (65 feet) is on the West Face of the Slab and starts approximately 40 feet right of Whipping Post on the very overhanging west face. Application this cycle is for pitch 1 of a proposed two-pitch route.

Pitch one has been redpointed on toprope at 5.12-. The opening sequence stands up into a long undercling arch before moving left, directly out a boulder problem through the overhanging band. Easier climbing leads up and right to the large ledge, above which the climber engages more boulder-problem cruxes interspersed with giant jugs on the overhanging wall to a finishing point at the midway ledge on the wall.

The rock quality is excellent throughout, with some loose rock that needs to be removed from the two ledges (lower ledge and midway). The route will require 7 or 8 bolts on this first pitch, with no opportunity for reliable natural gear. This is a physical, very overhanging addition to this back (west) side of the Slab, and the first line that has been tried/freed on this major part of the wall. Having the first pitch in will add another quality 5.12- to the cliff, as well as provide much-needed access to the upper headwall, which will hold more difficult climbs in the future. This route does not compromise the climbing on any existing lines. The staging area is a flat piece of ground below the west face, along the approach trail up to Undertow/Sweet Niblets.

FHRC Overview of the application: Complete
Voting Results: Approved
OSMP Decision: Approved

Hippopatamus, 5.10+

June 15, 2009

The Slab, West Face
Application date: 6/15/09


Information from the applicant:
The proposed route (50 feet) is on the far right side of the West Face of the Slab, starting off the right side of the
belay ledge for Undertow, about 30 feet right of Undertow. It climbs solid, gently overhanging black rock on jug holds.

The route has been redpointed on toprope and thoroughly inspected for best choice of protection. The only natural gear placement is possibly a hand-sized or larger cam deep behind the layback flake, between the location of the proposed first and second bolts now. The disadvantages to not bolting this section are: the flake is thin and the cam could fail or break the lip in a fall; if the cam were to be the first piece on the route, you¹d need to climb up, through hard moves, 10 feet off the exposed ledge to place the piece; and the layback nature of the moves makes it very difficult to see behind the flake to size the piece. The advantage to placing the first bolt would be: adequate protection off the exposed ledge, with a bolt in solid rock out right of the flake.

The proposal is to use five-steel half-inch bolts plus a 2-bolt anchor. The anchor will be at the top of the overhanging section of the wall, where the main difficulties end ­ the climbing above here is 5.4 for 15 feet and higher anchors would not be good on a rope while lowering.

The rock quality is excellent in general, and only brushing was needed to make the route safe and clean. The route offers sustained, outstanding 5.10+ climbing at a wall (the Slab) that currently has no good warm-ups. The staging area would be the Undertow Ledge.

FHRC Overview of the application: Complete
Voting Results:Approved
OSMP Decision:Approved

K00kEEz and KrEEm, 5.12+

March 15, 2009

W Face of the Slab
Application date: 3/15/09

Information from the applicant:
The proposed route is on the West face of the Slab and is located approximately 40 feet right of the existing climb S00krEEm, and 50 feet left of the Whipping Post.  It climbs straight up the maroon, tan, and grey rock.

Length:            Approximately 90 feet in length.
Name:              K00kEEz and KrEEm
Rating:                        5.13a
Protection: 12 bolts plus a two-bolt anchor

The route has been red-pointed on toprope and thoroughly inspected for best choice of protection.  The route does not offer traditional/natural gear placements and it is recommended that bolts/hangers be used for protection. Bolt locations have been marketed with white chalk (~1-inch circles) and are shown in red on the attached photo. There is also a pair of in situ (but hangerless) bolts right where the route finishes, indicating someone must have drilled these anchors 20 years ago, before the bolting ban; these are marked in green on the photo. The climb showed no signs of activity other than these two bolts.

The proposal is to use 12 bolts plus a 2-bolt anchor. First ascentionist wishes to leave the existing anchors (placed before the ban) where they are, but replace them with ½-inch stainless-steel hardware. The accompanying photo indicates bolt locations.

Route Description:
The climb begins on overhang terrain for the first 3 bolts, with the technical crux on thin crimps turning the lip, to reach the fourth bolt. More difficult face climbing follows until the angle begins to ease off. This slabbier climbing leads to a final roof (and 2 more clips), with another crux (5.12) to the existing anchors.  The rock quality is excellent in general with an iron-hard veneer. The climb would then have 10 bolts total up the lower face, and two out the final bulge.

The route offers varied, outstanding climbing on nearly perfect stone without compromising any existing routes or adding impact to the crag base.  It is accessed via the same approach trail as Just Another Boy’s Climb, Family Man, Boys with Power Toys and S00krEEm.  The staging area – a talusy area at the base of the cliff – would not experience additional impact from the route.

FHRC Overview of the application: Complete
Voting Results:Approved
OSMP Decision:Approved

PUBLIC COMMENTS:


I am in favor of the fixed hardware proposal pertaining to the proposed new route “K00kEEz & KrEEm” on The Slab.


I have hiked up and looked at “k00kEEz and KrEEm”.  The route is an independet line on quality rock, and looks to be a great addition to an amazing climbing area!  I vote yes on this application.


Film Noir, 5.12c/d

March 15, 2009

NW Face of the Slab
Application date: 3/15/09


Information from the applicant:

The proposed route is on the northwest face of the Slab and begins 15 feet right of Just Another Boys Climb. It climbs an independent line and finishes at a natural end spot at the very top of the wall. The route is approximately 95 feet long.

Length:            approximately 95 feet.
Name:              Film Noir
Rating:             5.12 c/d
Protection:    14 protection bolts and a 2-bolt anchor

Route Description:
This route climbs an independent and aesthetic line on generally solid rock up a prominent black streak in the middle of the Slab’s northwest face. It starts on the moderate slab apron right of Just Another Boys Climb. 5.7 climbing past the first bolt (20 feet up) leads to a 5.10 bulge at bolts 2 and 3. The angle eases for a few moves, leading to another bulge and a 5.11a/b crux at bolts 5 and 6. Again the angle eases for a few moves, allowing a rest and a 7th clip before confronting the route’s crux at bolts 8 and 9. From here, the climbing stays sustained — with multiple 5.11 and 5.11+ cruxes — and gently overhanging until the anchors. From the final jug, at the lip of the wall and with the 14th bolt at your feet, it will be possible to reach up and clip the chains before mantling onto lesser-angled terrain. The top out is similar to Boys Climb, in that the most-proper free ascent involves climbing up over the lip before weighting the anchors.

This route climbs over part of an old project first attempted by Fred Knapp and Bret Ruckman in 1989, with three bolts leading rightward from Boys Climb and an anchor at the top of the wall. Knapp and Ruckman’s rightmost bolt lies between the 12th and 13th bolt proposed here, and will need to be removed if Film Noir is approved. Their old bolted anchor lies about six feet right of where Film Noir, the logical route on this part of the wall, tops out; applicant proposes removing this anchor (Film Noir was toproped off gear) and installing a new one.

The lower half of the climb, which negotiates two bulges with slabby/rampy terrain below each, needs 7 bolts to eliminate the possibility of decking on the respective slabs. The headwall also has 7 bolts — about the same as the neighboring Boy’s Climb, which has 6 bolts and 2 pins.

This is an excellent, independent route on solid rock, climbing up the prominent and aesthetic black streak right of Boy’s Climb. There is an existing climber trail to the base of the route, and the staging area is the flat, piney bench used for Boy’s Climb, Family Man, s00krEEm, and Boys with Power Toys – i.e., no new impact to the crag base will occur.

The climb takes the best line on this panel of the wall, at the top straightening out the abandoned Knapp/Ruckman project, and does not encroach on any existing routes. There is no possibility of reliable natural gear throughout, making bolts the best and only lead-protection option.

FHRC Overview of the application: Complete
Voting Results:Approved
OSMP Decision:Approved

PUBLIC COMMENTS:


I am in favor of the fixed hardware proposal pertaining to the proposed new route “Film Noir” on The Slab.


I have hiked up and looked at “Film Noir”.  The route is an independet line on quality rock, and looks to be a great addition to an amazing climbing area!  I vote yes on this application.


I support the addition of Film Noir to the North Face of The Slab as specified in the application. This section of the cliff has great climbing and has quickly become a destination onto itself in the Flatirons due to the high concentration of quality climbs.  This route does not encroach on the adjacent lines.


Milk Bone, 5.13a

March 15, 2009

Dinosaur Rock, North Face
Application date: 3/15/09

Route Information Since Installation
Four bolts to a double-bolt anchor

Information from the applicant:
The proposed route is on the North Face of Dinosaur Rock and climbs an extruded, tufa-like feature in the middle of the wall. The climb starts with 30 feet of moderate climbing to a ledge below a small roof, then is consistently overhanging for 70 more feet, to the lip of the wall, where the overhanging rock meets the slab of the east face. Total length is 30 meters.

Length:            100 feet
Name:              Milk Bone
Rating:                        5.12+/13-
Protection: 8 bolts plus a two-bolt anchor

The route has been red-pointed (C. Weidner, M. Samet, B. Scott) on toprope and thoroughly inspected for best choice of protection.  The route does not offer traditional/natural gear placements and it is recommended that bolts/hangers be used for protection. Bolt locations were marked with white chalk (~1-inch circles).  The proposal is to use 8 bolts plus a 2-bolt anchor. The accompanying photo indicates bolt locations. First ascentionist wishes use ½-inch stainless-steel hardware, for the protection bolts and the anchors.

Route Description:
The route starts out with 30 feet of 5.9 to a sloping ledge. From there, sustained 5.12/12+ (with a crux negotiating the lip of the roof), with only a couple of minor rests, follows the tufa to an upper headwall, and a final 5.11 roof.

The rock quality is good low and will only get cleaner, and is excellent above the ledge all the way to the top.

The route offers sustained, outstanding climbing on a tufa feature to rival European limestone and that is completely unique in the Flatirons. The staging area is immediately off the Mallory Cave Trail, at a flat balcony in the trees, and this route will open up terrain on one of the major new walls of interest in the Flatirons. The wall’s shady aspect also makes it a good summer venue, when other places in Boulder are often too hot.

FHRC Overview of the application: Complete
Voting Results:Approved
OSMP Decision:Approved

PUBLIC COMMENTS:


I am in favor of the fixed hardware proposal pertaining to the proposed new route “Milk Bone” on Dinosaur Rock.


I have hiked up and looked at “Milkbone”.  The route is an independet line on quality rock, and looks to be a great addition to an amazing climbing area!  I vote yes on this application.


I support the bolting of Milk Bone on the North Face of Dinosaur Rock as specified in the application.  I am very familiar with this formation after top roping a line to the left and can vouch for the high quality of climbing and rock on this section of the cliff.  It is exciting to finally see established routes going up on this outstanding formation.


Der Spitzelhorn, 5.13d/14a

March 15, 2009

Dinosaur Mountain, Der Freischutz
Application date: 3/15/09


Information from the applicant:
The proposed route is on the severely overhanging northwest arête of the Der Freischutz flatiron on Dinosour Moutnain, approximately 15 feet left of the existing route Bidoigt.  The route ascends a stunning wave-like arete, offering challenging moves on one of the most unique features in the Flatirons.

Length:            Approximately 55 feet.
Name:              Der Spitzelhorn
Rating:                        5.13d/14a
Protection: 6 bolts plus a two-bolt anchor

All moves have been freed on toprope and the line has, over the course of three days of effort, been thoroughly inspected for best choice of protection. Given the severe angle of the climb (30- 45 degrees on the upper 25 feet) and lack of directional gear placements, it is extremely difficult to work this climb on toprope. However, the applicant has linked up to and into the crux before taking the big pendulum swing off, and was then able to pull back on and link the top crux moves separately. Given the extreme difficulty of the route and the big (20- to 30-foot) swing if you fall, this is as close to free as the line will be until the hardware is installed. There is no doubt it goes as a free climb, albeit a tough one.

The route offers no traditional/natural gear placements and it is recommended that bolts/hangers be used for protection. Bolt locations have been marked with white chalk (~1-inch circles).  The proposal is to use 6 bolts plus a 2-bolt anchor. Stainless-steel ½” bolts will be used on the entire climb. See attached photo for picture of the route with bolt placements.

Route Description:
The route begins with three bolts of 5.9 face climbing up an inset corner on good stone.  After the third bolt, the angle gradually steepens, with continuous 5.11 and 5.12 climbing to a brief shake at the 5th bolt, at the base of the “horn” feature. From here, proceed through a strenuous series of crimpers with your left hand while grabbing the arête with your right.  The crux is at the sixth bolt, involving a big move to gain the summit jugs, and to clip the anchors.
The rock quality is excellent in general, and only brushing was needed to make the route safe and clean.

The route offers increasingly difficult, outstanding climbing on a truly unique feature.  It does not compromise any existing routes or add any additional impact to the crag base. The route is approached via the same approach trail used to access the Hand (Power Bulge, Back in Slacks, etc.) and Der Freischutz (Drugs, Bidoigt, etc.), among other climbs in the area. The staging area is on the same flat rock ledge used for Bidoigt and Drugs.

FHRC Overview of the application: Complete
Voting Results:Approved
OSMP Decision:Approved

PUBLIC COMMENTS:


I am in favor of the fixed hardware proposal pertaining to the proposed new route “Der Spitzelhorn” on Der Freischutz.


I have hiked up and looked at “Der Spitzelhorn”.  The route is an independet line on quality rock, and looks to be a great addition to an amazing climbing area!  I vote yes on this application.

Pink Man’s Burden, 5.11

September 15, 2009

Dinosaur Rock, Southwest Face
Application date: 9/15/09


Information from the applicant:
The proposed route (two pitches) is on the Southwest Face of Dinosaur Rock. It will climb a left-leaning traverse (5.9) on pitch one past four bolts and traditional gear to a double-bolt belay below an overhanging huecoed wall. The second pitch (5.11) will climb the huecoed wall past six bolts to a double-bolt anchor, from which you can rappel to the leaning slab below.

The route has been redpointed on toprope and thoroughly inspected for best choice of protection. It is recommended that bolts/hangers be used for protection on both pitches. The route offers traditional gear only along some parts of pitch one, with no other traditional/natural gear placements otherwise on either pitch. The proposal, then, is to use four stainless-steel half-inch bolts (and the trad gear) plus a 2-bolt anchor on pitch one; and six stainless-steel half-inch bolts plus a 2-bolt anchor on pitch two. The accompanying photo indicates bolt locations.

The route starts with a 5.9 corner to more 5.8/5.9 climbing on the left-diagonalling traverse. After much inspection, applicant determined the traverse was the best (most solid) way to access the headwall on pitch two, as the rock directly below pitch two, in the overhanging slot, is irredeemably friable. The second pitch is pumpy, featured, hueco’ed climbing (sustained 5.11) on a gently overhanging red/brown wall.

The route offers sunny, exposed 5.11 climbing on a scenic feature high above Bear Canyon. Climbers will be able to, once completing the second pitch, scramble back out the slab and then circle back around Dinosaur Rock on Mallory Cave Trail to their packs. The staging area below pitch on is a rock ledge accessed by hiking/scrambling around the south side of Dinosaur Rock, on slabs, from the Mallory Cave Trail.

FHRC Overview of the application: Complete
Voting Results: Approved
OSMP Decision: Approved

PUBLIC COMMENTS:
Login and post comments, or send your comments tofhrc@flatironsclimbing.org – be sure to include the name of the route application your comment pertains to. 

New Bolt on Cardboard Cowboy, 5.11c

September 15, 2009

Dinosaur Mountain, The Hand
Application date: 9/15/09

Information from the applicant:
The applicant proposes to add one bolt route to the existing route Cardboard Cowboy, located on the south face of The Hand, Dinosaur Mountain. This would be the final bolt on the climb before reaching the anchors and will eliminate the current 20-foot, 5.11a runout to the anchors. The first ascentionist has granted approval to install the bolt that is being proposed here.

The first ascentionist has also received negative feedback concerning the current runout and long-fall potential, which entails a potentially dangerous fall (30’ fall only 40’ off the ground).

In light of the difficulty level of the unprotected terrain relative to the route’s overall difficulty, the applicant and other climbers who have climbed the route suggest the addition of the proposed bolt. There is no option for traditional gear to protect this area. The route was initially installed on rappel.

FHRC Overview of the application: Complete
Voting Results: Approved
OSMP Decision: Pending