Spider Candy
Route Name: Spider Candy
Rock Formation: The Fiddlehead in Fern Canyon
Number of bolts to be placed: 15 lead bolts + 2 2 bolt anchors
Route Difficulty: Approximately 5.13
2nd pitch:
Pitch 1:
Route Description:
A description of existing routes on the same face of the rock formation, including the number of routes, route names, route grade, type, and approximate distance between routes (a photocopy or diagram of the existing route(s) is also required):
The other routes on the lower section of The Fiddlehead are Chains of Love 5.12b, about 100 feet uphill. Stemadilemma 5.11d, 30 feet to the right of the proposed first pitch which ends on the same sloping ledge below the proposed second pitch. One hundred feet downhill are A Shadow Sickness 5.10c and Castles Made of Sand 5.11d.
A description of the approach (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails leading to the climb and condition of the trail, and state whether there is a durable surface, such as rock.
The approach follows the Fern Canyon trail to the standard climber’s trail to Chains of Love. The climber’s trail leaves the hiking trail at the toe of The Nebel Horn Ridge and follows the base of it’s east face, climbing uphill until one can contour north across large boulders to the bottom of the Fiddle head.
where you leave the Fern Canyon trail:
If different from the approach, a description of the descent, (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails, a description of the trail condition and whether there is a durable surface, such as rock. Include photographs of the descent.):
The decent will be from bolted anchors at the top of the route and reversing the approach trail.
Staging area:
A description of the area at the base of the climb (include existing levels of soil compaction, existence of a durable surface such as rock, and existing soil erosion. Include photographs of the area at the base of the climb.):
Has all reconnaissance work that can be reasonably done, short of placing any hardware, been done?
The route has been inspected on rappel and verified that it will be climbable at an estimated grade of 5.12+ – 5.13. It is too steep to toprope successfully. There is a minimal amount of loose rock and overall the rock is quite solid.
Has the route been top roped? Is there loose rock? Is it extremely overhanging?
The route is too overhanging to top rope.
Looks great! Yes please.
Looks awesome, I say yes!