Misled Youth
Route Name: Misled Youth
Rock Formation: The Third Flatiron
Number of bolts to be placed: 9 lead bolts + 2 bolt anchor
Route Difficulty: 5.14-
Route Description:
Misled Youth starts on the West Bench of The Third Flatiron. The first section is gear protected and is the first pitch of the NW corner. From the belay alcove continue up right to the imposing black streak. 9 lead bolts and some hard steep climbing will lead to an anchor at about 35m.
The name is a nod to the people that originally painted the CU on the East Face.
climber on West Face
A description of existing routes on the same face of the rock formation, including the number of routes, route names, route grade, type, and approximate distance between routes (a photocopy or diagram of the existing route(s) is also required):
Left to Right on the NW overhang of The Third Flatiron:
Northwest Passage 5.10b R (gear)
Misled Youth 5.14- (proposed route)
West Face 5.10b (gear)
A description of the approach (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails leading to the climb and condition of the trail, and state whether there is a durable surface, such as rock.
Follow the established approach trail for the West Face of Third Flatiron (the descent route from the standard rappel route). Ascend 5.6 terrain just above traverse for West Face [3rd Flatrion] righward traverse to a pedestal. ‘Misled Youth’ climbs up and right above this pedestal into unclimbed terrain.
If different from the approach, a description of the descent, (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails, a description of the trail condition and whether there is a durable surface, such as rock. Include photographs of the descent.):
The descent will be via lowering off the route and reversing the approach trail.
Staging area:
A description of the area at the base of the climb (include existing levels of soil compaction, existence of a durable surface such as rock, and existing soil erosion. Include photographs of the area at the base of the climb.):
The staging area at the base is the same as for Red Arete and Red Dihedral since it shares the same first two pitches. It is rock, with no pre-existing vegetation.
Has all reconnaissance work that can be reasonably done, short of placing any hardware, been done?
Yes.
Has the route been top roped? Is there loose rock? Is it extremely overhanging?
Yes. Route has been tope rope soloed and all loose rock (minimal) has been removed. There are three overhanging sections separated by good rests. First boulder is roughly V8/9 and requires a difficult left knee bar. Second Boulder is roughly V6/7 and climbs out the steepest portion of the route. Third Boulder is roughly V9/10 and requires a difficult span off of two slot pockets to a lone crimp/flake on an otherwise blank face. (Crimp is solid)
Any additional notes:
Looks like a solid addition to the Third Flatiron. Yes!
You had me at “left kneebar”…looks amazing!