Route Name: Old Chub

Application Status: Approved

Application Cycle: 2014

Rock Formation: The Matron

Number of lead bolts to be placed: 11

Number of anchor bolts to be placed:

Route Difficulty:5.12

Route Diagrams:

Not provided

Proposed Route:

This route is located on the upper right side of the north face of the Matron, and starts behind a huge flake forming a wide chimney, about 30 feet left of the route Father Knows Best (5.11b). The proposed route would also finish at these anchors, and all three routes converge at the arête about 4-5 feet below these anchors. At the top of the proposed line, the aid crack of In Spite of Love is within 6 to 10 feet in an area where two bolts are proposed. Although said bolts would be far enough away from the aid placements to make if difficult or impractical to reach the bolts from that route, we went ahead and contacted the first ascentionist, Eric Doub. He said he was fine with our proposed bolts and gave us encouragement to develop the new line. The line Father Knows Best is at least 10-15 feet away at all times except for the very top where all three routes converge. Upon pulling onto the face with conglomerate holds, the line trends up and right along for approximately 35 feet along sustained 5.11 knobs and pockets. Then, the holds get much thinner and the climb goes up and left into sustained 5.12- climbing across a smooth face. The rock is extremely clean here and the holds are small but sharp. The climbing largely involves long reaches to decent holds, with little else in between, resulting in lots of high steps, mantel-like moves, and dynos. Once through this relatively blank section, the climbing trends back right, about 10-12 feet below the roof, and follows easier 5.10 and 5.11 climbing to the arête. Other than a small crack about 35 feet up, there do not appear to be any possibilities for natural protection. As such, we recommend 4 bolts from the ground leading up to the crack, a piece of protection in the ½” to 1” range would be placed next (in the crack), and then 7 more bolts would be used to protect the remaining upper portion of the pitch, which contains no natural protection opportunities. We would also like to replace the existing and aging anchor at the top of the first pitch of the West Face (also used for Father Knows Best and to be shared by this new route) with ½-inch stainless steel bolts, a ring, and chain set for rappelling.

Name Meaning:

Not provided

Existing Route Information

Existing Route Diagrams

A description of the approach (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails leading to the climb and condition of the trail, and state whether there is a durable surface, such as rock.

Take the standard approach to the Matron. The most direct approach involves hiking out of Eldorado Springs up the Old Mesa Trail to the Shadow Canyon Trail. Take the latter trail a short distance up to the first ravine encountered, and the Matron trail branches off right there. Follow the distinct climber-approach trail (mostly dirt) up another 10 minutes to the eastern toe of the Matron, and a thin trail through talus and dirt paths extends up along the north face to all routes. Follow the same climber’s trail down to the Old Mesa Trail.

If different from the approach, a description of the descent, (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails, a description of the trail condition and whether there is a durable surface, such as rock. Include photographs of the descent.):

The descent initially involves a rappel (about 85 feet) off the top of the first pitch of the West Face, then you can return down along the north-face trail to your backpacks, etc. The standard rappel off the West Face lands in this same area, though it is possible to trend west and rappel to the base of the West Face too (located perhaps 15 yards up and right of the staging/ base area).

A description of the area at the base of the climb (include existing levels of soil compaction, existence of a durable surface such as rock, and existing soil erosion. Include photographs of the area at the base of the climb.):

Very rocky base area with little to no vegetation. A few scattered raspberry canes were present around the base area during mid-July 2014. No “soil” is visible anywhere in the base area; mostly talus and large rock chunks.

Has all reconnaissance work that can be reasonably done, short of placing any hardware, been done?

Base Area Photos

Has the route been top roped? Is there loose rock? Is it extremely overhanging?

There is little to no loose rock, save some softer rock in the last 5 to 10 feet of the pitch, under which the natural line traverses.

Any additional notes:

Not provided