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Route Name: Hardline
Application Status:
Application Cycle: current
Rock Formation: Overhang Rock
Number of lead bolts to be placed: 10
Number of anchor bolts to be placed: 2
Route Difficulty:5.14
Route Diagrams:
Proposed Route:
The proposed route branches off “The Overhang” about two-thirds of the way up that route, at the steepest and most featured section of the wall. The proposed route will angle up and left, crossing “Overhang Left,” via a spectacular, overhanging panel that follows the logical path of holds – cracks, seams and blocky features – all the way to a distinct black streak that leads to the top of the wall. Incredibly, this overhanging panel promises the most aesthetic as well as the most challenging terrain on this beautiful wall. This route will land solidly in the 5.14 range.The route name is intended to roll off the tongue, and to be straightforward. This is the “Hardline” of Overhang Rock!
Name Meaning:
The route name is intended to roll off the tongue, and to be straightforward. This is the “Hardline” of Overhang Rock!
Existing Route Information
There are currently 6 existing routes on the east face proper: 1) East Face (5.6, 2 pitches, trad)This is the “standard” summit route on this side of Overhang Rock. It’s located at the far left (south) side ofthe face. There is a direct first pitch variation that goes at 5.7 trad.2) Overhang Left 5.13c This fantastic new sport route has not yet been redpointed, but as soon as temperatures cool down it will be. This route is roughly 100 yards downhill from the East Face and about 10 feet left of The Overhang. 3) The Overhang 5.14The first sport route on the east face, this fine line is fully bolted and I am currently working on free climbingthis spectacular route.4) The Hangover 5.13 An attractive and challenging line that tackles the shady overhang to the right of the arête that defines The Overhang, the original sport climb on this wall.5) Flakes of Respite (5.8 R, 4 pitches, trad)This recent, heady route begins about 100 yards downhill from East Face.6) Aid East Face (5.8 C2 R, 2 pitches, trad)Another 100 feet downhill from Flakes of Respite is this aid route – the first climb encountered when approaching from beneath the north side of the rock.Existing Route Diagrams
A description of the approach (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails leading to the climb and condition of the trail, and state whether there is a durable surface, such as rock.
The approach begins at the Bear Canyon trailhead, then cuts left onto the main canyon trail beneath NCARand straight toward the Flatirons. After some meandering switchbacks turn right onto the Bear Canyon trailwhere the main fork leads toward the Mesa Trail. Once the right fork veers left there’s a nice view of theeast face of Overhang Rock.After passing underneath Overhang Rock to the north, a climber’s trail (packed dirt, rocks) cuts left up intothe woods and circles back toward Overhang Rock’s west face on a faint trail and over talus. Passunderneath the north face of the wall (and Rogue’s Arete) to access the east face via boulder-hopping. Walkuphill beneath the face for about 100 yards (packed dirt, rocks, dried grass and low brush) to the base of theproposed route.*Alternatively, once beneath the west face one can walk uphill beneath it to the notch at the south end of Overhang Rock, pop over to the east side, and walk downhill (packed dirt, rocks, pine needles) to the base of the proposed route.
If different from the approach, a description of the descent, (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails, a description of the trail condition and whether there is a durable surface, such as rock. Include photographs of the descent.):
The descent is the same as the approach.
A description of the area at the base of the climb (include existing levels of soil compaction, existence of a durable surface such as rock, and existing soil erosion. Include photographs of the area at the base of the climb.):
The base of the climb consists of flat, compact dirt and rocks.
Has all reconnaissance work that can be reasonably done, short of placing any hardware, been done?
Base Area Photos
Has the route been top roped? Is there loose rock? Is it extremely overhanging?
I have toproped the first third of the proposed route – the terrain in between The Overhang and Overhang Left. The remainder of the climb is extremely overhanging so I’m unable to toprope it without placing hardware. Loose rock is virtually non-existent! The rock quality on the overhang itself is superb, and the finishing black streak – a watercourse that naturally eliminates loose rock – appears solid and highly featured.
Any additional notes:
I truly believe this route will become one of the best hard lines in the Flatirons.
Yum yum, looks fun!