Route Name: Anaconda

Application Status: Reviewed

Application Cycle: 2020

Rock Formation: The Slab

Number of lead bolts to be placed: 8

Number of anchor bolts to be placed: 2

Route Difficulty:5.13b

Route Diagrams:

Proposed Route:

Start from the belay anchor atop the 1st pitch of Pen 15. Climb easy ground above the belay to reach the steep, overhanging wall to the right of Pen 15's pitch 2. Coil and constrict your way up the opening boulder problem crux to gain monster jugs at a great rest (it might be nice to have the first 2 bolts in the crux pre-clipped to avoid falling onto the slab below if you blow the second clip). Snake your way out right along the traverse past a short 5.12 section to gain more amazing jugs and another nice rest. Slither straight up past the last 2 bolts through nice vertical 5.11 terrain to reach more jugs and the anchor.

Name Meaning:

The name Anaconda is in reference to a roller coaster thrill ride

Existing Route Information

Existing Route Diagrams

A description of the approach (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails leading to the climb and condition of the trail, and state whether there is a durable surface, such as rock.

Use the existing well-established approach for the west face of this formation. It is a few hundred yards away from the main Fern Canyon trail.

If different from the approach, a description of the descent, (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails, a description of the trail condition and whether there is a durable surface, such as rock. Include photographs of the descent.):

The descent is via lowering off the route.

A description of the area at the base of the climb (include existing levels of soil compaction, existence of a durable surface such as rock, and existing soil erosion. Include photographs of the area at the base of the climb.):

Use the existing and well-established base and staging area for Pen 15 and Prime the Pump.

Has all reconnaissance work that can be reasonably done, short of placing any hardware, been done?

Base Area Photos

Has the route been top roped? Is there loose rock? Is it extremely overhanging?

Yes, the route has been successfully top-roped using traditional protection for anchors and directionals.

Any additional notes:

This will be a great addition to the slab on good quality stone. It does not interfere with any existing routes and does not require any new trails or staging areas at the base. It will share the comfortable 2nd pitch belay anchor for the route Pen 15. The route has been freed at a grade of about 5.13.