Route Name: Heart of Stone

Application Status:

Application Cycle: 2025

Rock Formation: Fiddlehead

Number of lead bolts to be placed: 10

Number of anchor bolts to be placed: 4

Route Difficulty:5.12

Route Diagrams:

Proposed Route:

The proposed route ascends the west face of the Fiddlehead, about 30 ft to the right of Chains of Love. The route starts on the same first pitch as Chains of Love – no additional hardware will be added to this section. Once you arrive at anchor for Chains of Love pitch 1, the climber traverses right to an independent / separate P1 anchor for the proposed route. From there, the route ascends the steep overhang on honeycomb jugs, similar to Chains of Love. The route continues up the vertical headwall above the overhang, finishing on the prow at the top of the formation.

Name Meaning:

The route name, Heart of Stone, is a song from the Erasure album that also has Chains of Love.

Existing Route Information

Existing Route Diagrams

A description of the approach (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails leading to the climb and condition of the trail, and state whether there is a durable surface, such as rock.

The approach is the same as Chains of Love, and is well-established. Approach via the Fern Canyon Trail, breaking off to the north on the climber’s trail near the Superfresh boulder. Follow the standard climber’s trail to approach to Chains of Love.

If different from the approach, a description of the descent, (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails, a description of the trail condition and whether there is a durable surface, such as rock. Include photographs of the descent.):

Climbers descend by lowering off the route via the halfway anchor and a 60m rope, or from the top with an 80m rope. Climbers will then reverse the approach in.

A description of the area at the base of the climb (include existing levels of soil compaction, existence of a durable surface such as rock, and existing soil erosion. Include photographs of the area at the base of the climb.):

The base of the climb is solid rock and dirt, and is well established due to the popularity of Chains of Love.

Has all reconnaissance work that can be reasonably done, short of placing any hardware, been done?

Base Area Photos

Has the route been top roped? Is there loose rock? Is it extremely overhanging?

Yes – the route has been mostly freed on TR. The route is severely overhanging. The rock is solid.

Any additional notes:

This route is in character with Chains of Love, and is an excellent addition to the wall. It will be a good alternative to Chains of Love and offer more variety for climbers coming to climb that route.