Route Name: Thief of Joy

Application Status: Approved

Application Cycle: 2025

Rock Formation: Ridge One

Number of lead bolts to be placed: 12

Number of anchor bolts to be placed: 2

Route Difficulty:5.13

Route Diagrams:

Proposed Route:

This new route climbs the overhanging wall on the west face of the summit tower at the top of Ridge One (Stairway to Heaven) in Skunk Canyon. The route will start just below the unnamed 5.10aR for approximately 20 feet below the corner in a steep cave. Permission was given by the FA party to climb into and cross this climb. Once out of the cave you enter the corner, and the route will continue straight up a beautiful techy and crimpy vertical face for another 65 feet. This climb will not share any bolts with the adjacent routes and will have its own two-bolt anchor. The route will be bolted so that you can either begin in the cave (5.13b) or begin on the pedestal (5.12a)

Name Meaning:

The route name is symbolic of the failure rate in climbing and a reminder to always have fun.

Existing Route Information

Existing Route Diagrams

A description of the approach (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails leading to the climb and condition of the trail, and state whether there is a durable surface, such as rock.

To reach the west face of Ridge One, you hike up to Hillbilly Rock and continue up for 3-5 minutes along the descent trail for “Stairway to Heaven.” This climber’s trail is comprised of dirt and rock and clearly marked with rock cairns. The descent drops you off at a saddle just north of the summit of Ridge One, from where you hike a down a separate climber’s trail in a wide gully for about 50’ to the base of the proposed route.

If different from the approach, a description of the descent, (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails, a description of the trail condition and whether there is a durable surface, such as rock. Include photographs of the descent.):

Climber will lower off the chains back to the belay.

A description of the area at the base of the climb (include existing levels of soil compaction, existence of a durable surface such as rock, and existing soil erosion. Include photographs of the area at the base of the climb.):

The base of the route is comprised of rock as shown in the photo below. There is no vegetation on or near either staging area—it’s all rock and dirt. The climb begins in a rock cave or on an existing/natural rock pedestal.

Has all reconnaissance work that can be reasonably done, short of placing any hardware, been done?

Base Area Photos

Has the route been top roped? Is there loose rock? Is it extremely overhanging?

Yes, this route has been top roped at the top and holds have been observed for the bottom. The cave will need some cleaning similar to Hellbound (5.13c) and not much cleaning is required for the corner and vertical face sections.

Any additional notes:

Not provided