Route Name: Hasta La Hueco

Application Status:

Application Cycle: 2015

Rock Formation: The Maiden

Number of lead bolts to be placed: 9

Number of anchor bolts to be placed: 2

Route Difficulty:5.12d

Route Diagrams:

Not provided

Proposed Route:

This route works up to and follows the striking, wildly hueco'd wall up the middle of the south face of the Maiden. Pitch 1 (trad) starts just right of a large juniper tree, directly below the "Stone Oven Belay" (top of 1st pitch of the South Face route). Look for the juggy holds over a small roof and start there. Pull the roof low, step up right onto a slab, and work up to a ramp, following it up left and then straight up to a red/chocolate roof, moving right over airy ground to the belay ledge (5.9 or 10-). The second pitch is the business and fires up the continuously overhung, bullet-proof, patina'd wall. The first 5 bolts travel through juggy 5.10+ or 11- terrain to a stance just past the 5th bolt. From there, power up sustained 5.12 moves to a break above the 8th bolt, then finish it up to the top via one more cruxy section.

Name Meaning:

Not provided

Existing Route Information

Not provided

Existing Route Diagrams

A description of the approach (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails leading to the climb and condition of the trail, and state whether there is a durable surface, such as rock.

Not provided

If different from the approach, a description of the descent, (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails, a description of the trail condition and whether there is a durable surface, such as rock. Include photographs of the descent.):

Not provided

A description of the area at the base of the climb (include existing levels of soil compaction, existence of a durable surface such as rock, and existing soil erosion. Include photographs of the area at the base of the climb.):

Not provided

Has all reconnaissance work that can be reasonably done, short of placing any hardware, been done?

Base Area Photos

Has the route been top roped? Is there loose rock? Is it extremely overhanging?

Not provided

Any additional notes:

Only a very light rack is needed for the first pitch, from small nuts/RPs to a #2 Camalot. Bring 4 or 5 long slings to minimize drag. For the second pitch, 9 bolts lead to a 2-bolt anchor. There's also an optional old pin to clip a few feet above the belay if desired. --- Additional (unmatched) --- FA: Bret Ruckman, Steve Annecone (2013)