Route Name: Serpentine Dreams

Application Status:

Application Cycle: 2015

Rock Formation: The Matron

Number of lead bolts to be placed: 13

Number of anchor bolts to be placed:

Route Difficulty:5.12b

Route Diagrams:

Not provided

Proposed Route:

This is a sustained thin-face climb on the west end of the north face of the Matron. It has 13 lead bolts (plus a 1.25″ Cam—0.75 Camalot) to the existing rappel anchors atop the first pitch of the West Face climb. Climb a chimney to a high first bolt, move along a rightward traverse (5.11), then continue up the blank, continuously difficult face. 70-METER ROPE MANDATORY!

Name Meaning:

Not provided

Existing Route Information

Not provided

Existing Route Diagrams

A description of the approach (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails leading to the climb and condition of the trail, and state whether there is a durable surface, such as rock.

Not provided

If different from the approach, a description of the descent, (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails, a description of the trail condition and whether there is a durable surface, such as rock. Include photographs of the descent.):

Not provided

A description of the area at the base of the climb (include existing levels of soil compaction, existence of a durable surface such as rock, and existing soil erosion. Include photographs of the area at the base of the climb.):

Not provided

Has all reconnaissance work that can be reasonably done, short of placing any hardware, been done?

Base Area Photos

Has the route been top roped? Is there loose rock? Is it extremely overhanging?

Not provided

Any additional notes:

FA: Steve Annecone, Bret Ruckman (2014)