Route Name: Hippopatamus, 5.10+
Application Status:
Application Cycle: 2009
Rock Formation: The Slab
Number of lead bolts to be placed: 5
Number of anchor bolts to be placed: 2
Route Difficulty:5.10+
Route Diagrams:
Not provided
Proposed Route:
The proposed route (50 feet) is on the far right side of the West Face of the Slab, starting off the right side of the belay ledge for Undertow, about 30 feet right of Undertow. It climbs solid, gently overhanging black rock on jug holds. The route has been redpointed on toprope and thoroughly inspected for best choice of protection. The only natural gear placement is possibly a hand-sized or larger cam deep behind the layback flake, between the location of the proposed first and second bolts now. The disadvantages to not bolting this section are: the flake is thin and the cam could fail or break the lip in a fall; if the cam were to be the first piece on the route, you¹d need to climb up, through hard moves, 10 feet off the exposed ledge to place the piece; and the layback nature of the moves makes it very difficult to see behind the flake to size the piece. The advantage to placing the first bolt would be: adequate protection off the exposed ledge, with a bolt in solid rock out right of the flake. The proposal is to use five-steel half-inch bolts plus a 2-bolt anchor. The anchor will be at the top of the overhanging section of the wall, where the main difficulties end the climbing above here is 5.4 for 15 feet and higher anchors would not be good on a rope while lowering. The rock quality is excellent in general, and only brushing was needed to make the route safe and clean. The route offers sustained, outstanding 5.10+ climbing at a wall (the Slab) that currently has no good warm-ups.
Name Meaning:
Not provided
Existing Route Information
The staging area would be the Undertow Ledge.Existing Route Diagrams
A description of the approach (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails leading to the climb and condition of the trail, and state whether there is a durable surface, such as rock.
Not provided
If different from the approach, a description of the descent, (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails, a description of the trail condition and whether there is a durable surface, such as rock. Include photographs of the descent.):
Not provided
A description of the area at the base of the climb (include existing levels of soil compaction, existence of a durable surface such as rock, and existing soil erosion. Include photographs of the area at the base of the climb.):
The staging area would be the Undertow Ledge.
Has all reconnaissance work that can be reasonably done, short of placing any hardware, been done?
Base Area Photos
Has the route been top roped? Is there loose rock? Is it extremely overhanging?
Not provided
Any additional notes:
FHRC Overview of the application: Complete
