Route Name: Pen 15, 5.12a

Application Status:

Application Cycle: 2009

Rock Formation: The Slab

Number of lead bolts to be placed: 7

Number of anchor bolts to be placed: 2

Route Difficulty:5.12-

Route Diagrams:

Not provided

Proposed Route:

The proposed route (65 feet) is on the West Face of the Slab and starts approximately 40 feet right of Whipping Post on the very overhanging west face. Application this cycle is for pitch 1 of a proposed two-pitch route. Pitch one has been redpointed on toprope at 5.12-. The opening sequence stands up into a long undercling arch before moving left, directly out a boulder problem through the overhanging band. Easier climbing leads up and right to the large ledge, above which the climber engages more boulder-problem cruxes interspersed with giant jugs on the overhanging wall to a finishing point at the midway ledge on the wall.

Name Meaning:

Not provided

Existing Route Information

Existing Route Diagrams

A description of the approach (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails leading to the climb and condition of the trail, and state whether there is a durable surface, such as rock.

The staging area is a flat piece of ground below the west face, along the approach trail up to Undertow/Sweet Niblets.

If different from the approach, a description of the descent, (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails, a description of the trail condition and whether there is a durable surface, such as rock. Include photographs of the descent.):

Not provided

A description of the area at the base of the climb (include existing levels of soil compaction, existence of a durable surface such as rock, and existing soil erosion. Include photographs of the area at the base of the climb.):

The staging area is a flat piece of ground below the west face, along the approach trail up to Undertow/Sweet Niblets.

Has all reconnaissance work that can be reasonably done, short of placing any hardware, been done?

Base Area Photos

Has the route been top roped? Is there loose rock? Is it extremely overhanging?

The rock quality is excellent throughout, with some loose rock that needs to be removed from the two ledges (lower ledge and midway).

Any additional notes:

This is a physical, very overhanging addition to this back (west) side of the Slab, and the first line that has been tried/freed on this major part of the wall. Having the first pitch in will add another quality 5.12- to the cliff, as well as provide much-needed access to the upper headwall, which will hold more difficult climbs in the future. This route does not compromise the climbing on any existing lines.