Route Name: Later Creators

Application Status: Approved

Application Cycle: 2023

Rock Formation: Ridge One

Number of lead bolts to be placed: 8

Number of anchor bolts to be placed: 2

Route Difficulty:5.12d

Route Diagrams:

Proposed Route:

This new route climbs the overhang on the west face of the summit tower at the top of Ridge One (Stairway to Heaven) in Skunk Canyon. This new route will climb a 28-32 degree overhang for approximately 50 feet via a system of lieback flakes and crimps. To finish you will pull and mantle the lip at the top of the cliff and come to a stance where the anchors will be placed. This climb is located all the way at the top of the Ridge 1 cliff. We are proposing a grade of 12d / 13a for this route. We have spoken with the First ascensionist, Paul Glover, of “Like Hell it is” since the lines will intersect, and he has given us approval to bolt this line.

Name Meaning:

The route name is in keeping with the theme of the formation, as Ridge 1’s aka is “Stairway to Heaven”.

Existing Route Information

Existing Route Diagrams

A description of the approach (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails leading to the climb and condition of the trail, and state whether there is a durable surface, such as rock.

To reach the west face of Ridge One, you hike up to Hillbilly Rock and continue up for 3-5 minutes along the descent trail for “Stairway to Heaven.” This climber’s trail is comprised of dirt and rock and clearly marked with rock cairns. The descent drops you off at a saddle just north of the summit of Ridge One, from where you hike a down a separate climber’s trail in a wide gully for about 50’ to the base of the proposed route.

If different from the approach, a description of the descent, (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails, a description of the trail condition and whether there is a durable surface, such as rock. Include photographs of the descent.):

Not provided

A description of the area at the base of the climb (include existing levels of soil compaction, existence of a durable surface such as rock, and existing soil erosion. Include photographs of the area at the base of the climb.):

The base of the route is comprised of rock as shown in the photo below. There is no vegetation on or near either staging area—it’s all rock and dirt.

Has all reconnaissance work that can be reasonably done, short of placing any hardware, been done?

Base Area Photos

Has the route been top roped? Is there loose rock? Is it extremely overhanging?

Not provided

Any additional notes:

Yes, this route has been toproped at the top, and holds have been observed for the bottom. A few loose flakes will need to be cleaned and small flakes cleaned for safety.