Route Name: Middle Line

Application Status: Approved

Application Cycle: 2013

Rock Formation: Overhang Rock

Number of lead bolts to be placed: 15

Number of anchor bolts to be placed: 2

Route Difficulty:5.13

Route Diagrams:

Not provided

Proposed Route:

The proposed climb, Middle Line takes a more or less parallel line about 15-20 feet to the right of Snake Watching, heading straight up the vertical face before diagonalling up and right through the tiered roofs at the top of the wall. Like Snakewatching and Honey Badger, Middle Line is roughly 35 meters long and will require a 70m rope. The climb accesses the face at an obvious weakness in the lower roof band and contains powerful moves on slopers to reach a jug at the lip. A few more hard moves (5.12-) deposit the climber on the face, at which point the climber follows good edges and pockets up the brown face (5.11) to a very hard thin section (5.13) that ends with an undercling on the right side of the hanging “S” shaped-corner that starts about halfway up the wall. The climb follows the corner rightward to its end, then up the golden face on good holds, veering slightly left to an amazing rippled-jug and green lichen streak. At the top of the green streak, the climb somewhat adjoins the vertical portion of Snake Watching in one spot; however, the applicants do not feel that there will be any overlap, as Middle Line then moves sharply to the right and up through the final tiered roofs, ending with pumpy and powerful climbing to the anchor at the top.The applicants propose using 15 protection bolts, plus an additional two bolts with rings-and-chain at the anchor, as the climb offers no opportunities for natural gear. The applicants feel that this is the minimum number of bolts to safely protect the climb given the length. Overall, the route is on very solid rock featuring a variety of holds and movement; only minor cleaning of a few small flakes will be needed upon installation of the protection bolts.

Name Meaning:

Not provided

Existing Route Information

Existing Route Diagrams

A description of the approach (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails leading to the climb and condition of the trail, and state whether there is a durable surface, such as rock.

The proposed climb would share the same approach as the existing climbs on the west face of Overhang Rock. Currently, the fastest and most sustainable approach is to take the Bear Canyon Trail west from the Mesa Trail until about 15 feet east of the Shelf Blockboulder, then take a climber’s trail southeast up the hill past two distinct boulders to the power-line tower in the talus field. From the tower, head southeast along the lower edge of the upper talus field directly below Overhang Rock to the base of Snake Watching. From the base of Snake Watching, an easy 25-foot scramble up a rock ramp to the south leads to the staging area for the proposed climb, a broad, relatively flat dirt and rock ledge down and left of Honey Badger.

If different from the approach, a description of the descent, (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails, a description of the trail condition and whether there is a durable surface, such as rock. Include photographs of the descent.):

Like the other sport routes on the wall, the descent from the top of the pitch will require rappelling or lowering from a two-bolt anchor station. A 70 m rope will be required, but the applicants do not feel that it is necessary to install a midway anchor, as the climb is slightly shorter than either Snake Watching or Honey Badger, off both of which you can lower from the top with a 70m rope. The descent from the crag back to the Bear Canyon Trail is via the approach trail.

A description of the area at the base of the climb (include existing levels of soil compaction, existence of a durable surface such as rock, and existing soil erosion. Include photographs of the area at the base of the climb.):

The staging area is a dirt/rock area on a rock ramp/ledge at the base of the climb. There is a flat, gravelly area north of the start of the climb (under Snakewatching) where the climber and belayer can leave packs, etc.

Has all reconnaissance work that can be reasonably done, short of placing any hardware, been done?

Base Area Photos

Has the route been top roped? Is there loose rock? Is it extremely overhanging?

Not provided

Any additional notes:

Not provided