Route Name: New 5.13c, Dinosaur Rock, North Face

Application Status:

Application Cycle: 2009

Rock Formation: Dinosaur Rock

Number of lead bolts to be placed: 14

Number of anchor bolts to be placed: 2

Route Difficulty:5.13+

Route Diagrams:

Proposed Route:

The proposed route (120 feet) is on the North Face of Dinosaur Rock, taking the major line of strength from the toe of the wall to the summit of the formation. The route will begin on the first two bolts of Milk Bone to the rounded boss ledge. From there, it moves right up the double-overhanging, right-leaning corner for 30 feet (estimated: 5.12+), under the roof band. The route leads out and over the lip at V7/8 (5.13/13+) to better pocket-holes, from where it continues for the next 40 feet at 5.12-. Stepping right into the scoop high on the headwall, the route will continue in the black streak (featured, with small holds) that runs straight down from the apex of the wall, finishing at double-bolt anchors just left of the point. The estimated difficulty on this upper section is 5.12+/13-. The climb will be an endurance undertaking, given that it probably overhangs 40 feet in 120.

Name Meaning:

Not provided

Existing Route Information

Existing Route Diagrams

A description of the approach (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails leading to the climb and condition of the trail, and state whether there is a durable surface, such as rock.

The staging area will be the same as for Milk Bone, a platform in the trees just off the Mallory Cave Trail.

If different from the approach, a description of the descent, (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails, a description of the trail condition and whether there is a durable surface, such as rock. Include photographs of the descent.):

Not provided

A description of the area at the base of the climb (include existing levels of soil compaction, existence of a durable surface such as rock, and existing soil erosion. Include photographs of the area at the base of the climb.):

The staging area will be the same as for Milk Bone, a platform in the trees just off the Mallory Cave Trail.

Has all reconnaissance work that can be reasonably done, short of placing any hardware, been done?

Base Area Photos

Has the route been top roped? Is there loose rock? Is it extremely overhanging?

The applicant gave up on toprope due to the severely overhanging nature of the wall creating an injurious, nearly lethal (tree-branch-impalement) swing off the climb. Some loose rock will need to be removed on the overhanging corner to make the climb safe.

Any additional notes:

The route offers wildly sustained, overhanging climbing on one of Dinosaur Mountain's major features. It will be a modern testpiece, given its "rope-stretching" length, and a good endurance undertaking for hotter weather. There is no possibility for reliable natural protection.