Route Name: Spider Crack

Application Status:

Application Cycle: current

Rock Formation: Fiddlehead

Number of lead bolts to be placed: 17

Number of anchor bolts to be placed: 2

Route Difficulty:P1: 12-. , P2: 13+/14-

Route Diagrams:

Proposed Route:

The proposed route will add a wild and difficult new pitch up the middle of Fiddlehead’s severely overhanging headwall between Spider Candy and Doors of Stone. The route will also add a new entry pitch to this area of Fiddlehead just right of Doors of Stone.

Name Meaning:

The name references the adjacent route (Spider Candy) and the fact that this route follows a crack.

Existing Route Information

Existing Route Diagrams

A description of the approach (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails leading to the climb and condition of the trail, and state whether there is a durable surface, such as rock.

The approach follows the Fern Canyon trail to the standard climber’s trail to Chains of Love. The climber’s trail leaves the hiking trail at the toe of The Nebel Horn Ridge and follows the base of it’s east face, climbing uphill until one can contour north across large boulders to the bottom of the Fiddle head. 

If different from the approach, a description of the descent, (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails, a description of the trail condition and whether there is a durable surface, such as rock. Include photographs of the descent.):

The decent will be from bolted anchors at the top of the route and the same trail as the approach.

A description of the area at the base of the climb (include existing levels of soil compaction, existence of a durable surface such as rock, and existing soil erosion. Include photographs of the area at the base of the climb.):

The staging area at the base of the proposed route is mostly bare rock and dirt. There is a boulder structure below that naturally reinforces it and will prevent erosion. The decent will be from bolted anchors at the top of the route and the same trail as the approach.

Has all reconnaissance work that can be reasonably done, short of placing any hardware, been done?

Base Area Photos

Has the route been top roped? Is there loose rock? Is it extremely overhanging?

Not provided

Any additional notes:

Not provided