Route Name: Red Devil

Application Status:

Application Cycle: 2020

Rock Formation: Red Devil

Number of lead bolts to be placed: 9

Number of anchor bolts to be placed: 2

Route Difficulty:5.9

Route Diagrams:

Proposed Route:

The proposed route ascends the west side of the south face of the Red Devil formation. It is about 90 feet long and will require 9 protection bolts plus a two bolt/chain anchor at the top. The route has been top-roped by two people and the grade is likely 5.9. This should provide an excellent, long, and moderate route in an area that is already popular with beginning sport climbers. The character of the route is similar to its neighbor to its left, Paradise Lost (5.8+). The angle is slightly less than vertical but the route goes through several steeper bulges with a crux at about 20-25ft moving past one of them. The rock quality is excellent, requiring no significant cleaning beyond a few thin flakes that can be removed by hand.

Name Meaning:

Not provided

Existing Route Information

Existing Route Diagrams

A description of the approach (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails leading to the climb and condition of the trail, and state whether there is a durable surface, such as rock.

The approach to this climb follows the standard approach to the Red Devil. It begins at NCAR, crossing the Mesa Trail then hiking the popular Mallory Cave trail. At the point where the Mallory Cave trail passes Der Zerkle then goes up a rock slab to the left, there is a climber trail that continues to the right. The proposed climb is a couple of switchbacks up this trail, directly to the right of Paradise Lost.

If different from the approach, a description of the descent, (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails, a description of the trail condition and whether there is a durable surface, such as rock. Include photographs of the descent.):

This is a sport climb and the descent is via lowering or rappelling from a two bolt anchor.

A description of the area at the base of the climb (include existing levels of soil compaction, existence of a durable surface such as rock, and existing soil erosion. Include photographs of the area at the base of the climb.):

The base of the route is shared with Paradise Lost and is situated close to a switchback in the climber trail going to other parts of the Red Devil. The beginnings of the two route are adjacent but there will be sufficient room for two belayers (see Fig. 2). While Paradise Lost begins just left of a boulder at the base, the proposed route will begin by clipping a bolt from the top of the boulder (or from large holds one move up) and will move immediately right.

Has all reconnaissance work that can be reasonably done, short of placing any hardware, been done?

Base Area Photos

Has the route been top roped? Is there loose rock? Is it extremely overhanging?

The route has been top-roped, there is no loose rock, it is not overhanging.

Any additional notes:

This route has been approved by OSMP