Route Name: s00pr kr33m, 5.13

Application Status:

Application Cycle: 2010

Rock Formation: The Slab

Number of lead bolts to be placed: 10

Number of anchor bolts to be placed: 2

Route Difficulty:5.13

Route Diagrams:

Proposed Route:

The proposed route, s00pr kr33m, climbs the radically overhanging panel on the right center of the Slab's West Face, 60 feet left (north) of the existing climb Undertow and 35 feet right (south) of Pen 15. It takes a straight-up plumb line via ever-steepening tan and maroon rock. A moderate (5.4) slab or an easy walking traverse along a ledge lead to the start of the climbing proper: 5.9 climbing moving left into a right-facing corner and bulge (5.10+) to a small stance below the headwall. From here, the middle third of the climb goes at sustained 5.12c to an incut flake that gives little opportunity for resting, given the 30-degree overhanging angle. The final, very steep headwall culminates on a sustained, gymnastic crux on small pinches and underclings before reaching better holds that lead up and over the lip of the wall, to an obvious finishing stance. The pitch is 34 meters long, and requires a 70-meter rope.

 

Name Meaning:

Not provided

 

Existing Route Information

60 feet left (north) of the existing climb Undertow and 35 feet right (south) of Pen 15. This is a physical, very overhanging addition on solid rock to the back (west) side of the Slab, reminiscent in consistency and angle to the Eldorado Canyon classic Your Mother. This line takes the most logical path, and the best stone, on this right-central part of the wall and required minimal cleaning. This route does not compromise the climbing on any existing lines.

Existing Route Diagrams

 

 

 

A description of the approach (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails leading to the climb and condition of the trail, and state whether there is a durable surface, such as rock.

Not provided

 

 

 

If different from the approach, a description of the descent, (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails, a description of the trail condition and whether there is a durable surface, such as rock. Include photographs of the descent.):

Not provided

A description of the area at the base of the climb (include existing levels of soil compaction, existence of a durable surface such as rock, and existing soil erosion. Include photographs of the area at the base of the climb.):

 

The staging area is a flat piece of ground in the trees below the west face, along the approach trail up to Undertow.

 

 

Has all reconnaissance work that can be reasonably done, short of placing any hardware, been done?

Base Area Photos

Has the route been top roped? Is there loose rock? Is it extremely overhanging?

The climb took some directional toproping gear of very poor reliability.

Any additional notes:

This is a physical, very overhanging addition on solid rock to the back (west) side of the Slab, reminiscent in consistency and angle to the Eldorado Canyon classic Your Mother. Both applicants have freed the climb. --- Additional (unmatched) --- Application Date: June 15, 2010 Public Meeting/Vote: 7:30 pm, June 23, The Spot Bouldering Gym...all are invited. FHRC Overview of the application: Complete

 

2 replies
  1. Rui Ferreira
    Rui Ferreira says:

    I support the proposed route, but please can we do something about these route names…

Comments are closed.