Route Name: Shoulder Season

Application Status: Approved

Application Cycle: 2020

Rock Formation: Shanahan Crags

Number of lead bolts to be placed: 16

Number of anchor bolts to be placed: 3

Route Difficulty:5.12d

Route Diagrams:

Proposed Route:

The proposed route is a beautiful, independent, 50-meter line up the vertical south face of South Shanahan Crag. It begins just uphill from the low point of a rock ramp on the face's left side, and climbs just right of a green lichen streak. The route is characterized by solid edges, pockets and flakes that lead to a ledge at about 35 meters. From here, overhanging 5.10 jugs lead to the right of a conspicuous roof and up to a thin slab to the anchor at about 50 meters. The route feels about mid-5.12 in difficulty.

Name Meaning:

Not provided

Existing Route Information

Existing Route Diagrams

A description of the approach (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails leading to the climb and condition of the trail, and state whether there is a durable surface, such as rock.

The approach starts from Cragmoor. Hike the North Shanahan Trail to the Mesa Trail, then turn left (south) and walk for about 10 minutes until you reach a drainage just beyond an open meadow (with some bouldering). From here, a climber's path -- a faint path on rocks and dirt, then grass -- leads up the drainage, then up the hillside on the right to the Shanahan Crags. These are located approximately a quarter-mile from the Mesa Trail. The South Summit is about 5 minutes uphill from the Eastern Crag -- the first of the Shanahan Crags one encounters (about 50 minutes total to the south face of South Shanahan Crag). The base of the entire south face is talus and rocks interspersed with dirt. In the attached photo ("Shanahan approach") the South Shanahan Crag has route #759, which is the right margin of the south face (not visible in photo). Route #658 on the right is on The Slab.

If different from the approach, a description of the descent, (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails, a description of the trail condition and whether there is a durable surface, such as rock. Include photographs of the descent.):

The descent from the proposed route is to lower (or rappel) from the top anchor down to the intermediate anchor at ~35 meters *with a 70-meter rope. From here, one more lower (or rappel) will reach the ground *with a 70-meter rope. Reverse the approach to reach the trailhead.

A description of the area at the base of the climb (include existing levels of soil compaction, existence of a durable surface such as rock, and existing soil erosion. Include photographs of the area at the base of the climb.):

The base of the route is a mix of dirt, with some low vegetation, and pure rock. It is be easy to place packs and gear on the rock itself, thus minimizing impact to the staging area (see attached: "Shanahan base").

Has all reconnaissance work that can be reasonably done, short of placing any hardware, been done?

Base Area Photos

Has the route been top roped? Is there loose rock? Is it extremely overhanging?

Yes, I toproped the entire route. There is a little bit of loose rock -- a few small, isolated blocks and flakes. Overall, the rock is solid. The bottom third of the wall is very slightly overhanging, then it turns vertical, and finally it's a bit slabby.

Any additional notes:

1 extra for 1st anchor at ~35 meters, 2 for second anchor at ~50 meters