Route Name: Skein

Application Status:

Application Cycle: 2020

Rock Formation: The Goose

Number of lead bolts to be placed: 10

Number of anchor bolts to be placed: 2

Route Difficulty:5.13

Route Diagrams:

Proposed Route:

The proposed route Skein climbs the face between Golden Goat and Sweet & Innocent. It is mostly a face climb with a small roof overlap half way up and a headwall at the top. It starts on easy blocky terrain off the ground through an overlap on jugs and onto the slab (the rock through this passage is surprisingly good). Thin slab climbing, past a cruxy section in the middle, leads to a horizontal break. It then climbs through the left side of the dark band and onto the vertical headwall above for more thin crux face climbing to the top of the triangular wall. It is approximately 15 ft right of "Sweet and Innocent", and 30 ft left of Golden Goat.

 

Name Meaning:

Not provided

 

Existing Route Information

proposed route (Skein) is the white line in the center of the photo with Raging Bull in blue, red is Wild Horses, Sweet and Innocent is the natural crack and green is Golden Goat The southwest face of The Goose has six existing climbs. The rightmost route is The Batman, sport 5.10b with 4 bolts and anchor, next route is Golden Goat, sport 11a with 9 bolts, followed by a traditional gear protected route Sweet & Innocent, 10b. Sharing the same start as Sweet & Innocent is Wild Horse, 13a a sport route direct variation with 9 bolts. Next is Raging Bull a two pitch 12a, with 14 bolts and supplemented with traditional gear. The leftmost route is Big Bruce a 12b sport route with 9 bolts.

Existing Route Diagrams

 

 

 

A description of the approach (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails leading to the climb and condition of the trail, and state whether there is a durable surface, such as rock.

Use the existing standard approach from the Fern Canyon Trail to reach the Southwest face of The Goose formation. (Same approach as for "Big Bruce, "Wild Horses", "Cub/Raging Bull", "Sweet and Innocent", "Golden Goat", and "Batman"). This is mostly on a durable flat forested surface with a short section of easy rock hopping near the end below the wall.

 

 

 

If different from the approach, a description of the descent, (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails, a description of the trail condition and whether there is a durable surface, such as rock. Include photographs of the descent.):

The descent is via lowering off the route back to the staging area, and the return to Fern Canyon trail is via the same approach trail.

A description of the area at the base of the climb (include existing levels of soil compaction, existence of a durable surface such as rock, and existing soil erosion. Include photographs of the area at the base of the climb.):

 

The staging area is a flat durable mixture of compact dirt and small rocks at the base of the route.

 

 

Has all reconnaissance work that can be reasonably done, short of placing any hardware, been done?

Base Area Photos

Has the route been top roped? Is there loose rock? Is it extremely overhanging?

The route in its entirety has been top-roped and successfully climbed with hangs. The rock quality is mostly excellent on a slightly less than vertical to vertical wall. Very minimal cleaning may be required through a short section of stone.

Any additional notes:

none

 

8 replies
  7. Matt S
    Matt S says:

    This line looked cool. We swung over and sort of sussed the grips while lowering off the 5.12 to its left. So, here’s another yes vote, like 3 months too late because I didn’t see it till now.

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