Route Name: Sis Wife

Application Status:

Application Cycle: 2020

Rock Formation: Hillbilly Rock

Number of lead bolts to be placed: 11

Number of anchor bolts to be placed: 2

Route Difficulty:5.13

Route Diagrams:

Proposed Route:

Sis-Wife climbs the vertical to then very overhanging panel of rock right of the existing route Neph Son in the middle of the West Face of Hillbilly Rock—it is 10 feet right of Neph Son and 20 feet left of West Face (5.12c). The line climbs a hard boulder problem off the ground to a scoop/ledge, then moves up sustained, gently steepening terrain into the roof bands that cross the wall. Here, the route moves through the first roof via a scoop and layback flakes, then proceeds up the very overhanging headwall above before moving right across a final arête to finish along a well-featured layback corner/flake. The anchors will be at the lip of the wall, before it rounds over to slabby terrain.

Name Meaning:

Not provided

Existing Route Information

Existing Route Diagrams

A description of the approach (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails leading to the climb and condition of the trail, and state whether there is a durable surface, such as rock.

The approach is via NCAR. Take the Mallory Cave Trail to the Mesa Trail, head south to where the Mesa Trail traverses Skunk Canyon. Head west into Skunk Canyon on the climber's approach trail, then, 100 yards into the canyon, head due north up the first gully, between Hillbilly Rock and Ridge 1, to reach the west side of Hillbilly Rock on an existing climber's trail. The trail is on durable, hard-packed dirt and talus.

If different from the approach, a description of the descent, (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails, a description of the trail condition and whether there is a durable surface, such as rock. Include photographs of the descent.):

The descent is via lowering off the route back to the staging area, and via the approach trail.

A description of the area at the base of the climb (include existing levels of soil compaction, existence of a durable surface such as rock, and existing soil erosion. Include photographs of the area at the base of the climb.):

The staging area is a rock ledge against the wall, with compact dirt and rock behind it as you move slightly out from the wall.

Has all reconnaissance work that can be reasonably done, short of placing any hardware, been done?

Base Area Photos

Has the route been top roped? Is there loose rock? Is it extremely overhanging?

The route in its entirety has not been toproped due to its very overhanging angle, lack of directional gear, and the presence of trees behind the wall you could swing into. It has, however, been inspected multiple times, including on rappel and from the neighboring climb Nephson, and some moves have been completed on toprope on the upper section. The estimated difficulty is 5.13. The line has a few flakes in the first roof band that will that need to be removed, but is otherwise on clean, solid rock. The line is extremely overhanging – 20 to 25 degrees.

Any additional notes:

none