The Third Millennium

Route Name: The Third Millennium

Rock Formation: The Third Flatiron

Number of bolts to be placed: 13 lead bolts and two anchor bolts

Route Difficulty: 5.10+

Proposed Route:

The Third Millennium climbs the beautiful South facing wall of the 1911 gully. The start is uphill and to the left of the existing routes and luckily just beyond the end of the Ferns and poison ivy. This very varied route starts with steep face climbing. After a steep crux, a short hand crack (a couple of cams needed here) leads left to a slab section. Another steep overlap followed by heroic jugs leads to a stance at 35m and the anchor. Lower from here with a 70m rope, or traverse 15’ right and up onto the ridge to join The East Face Left side. A nice way to access this would be to climb Queen Anne’s Head 5.4, rap to the North into the 1911 Gully, then climb this route and continue to the summit of the Third.

 

The name refers to our current millennium.

 

A description of existing routes on the same face of the rock formation, including the number of routes, route names, route grade, type, and approximate distance between routes (a photocopy or diagram of the existing route(s) is also required):

 

Routes in the 1911 Gully include:

1911 Gully 5.4 trad (which is the easiest approach to this proposed climb)

The Third Millennium 5.10+ (proposed route, right of a prominent cave half way up, and left of the obvious overhand that the South Face route traverses under).

South Face 5.10d R (trad with one old bolt)

Shoyu State 5.10c sport

Blazing Biners 5.10a (mix of bolts and gear)

Sayonara  5.10b or 5.12b sport            

 

 

 

A description of the approach (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails leading to the climb and condition of the trail, and state whether there is a durable surface, such as rock.  

 

The approach is from Chautauqua. Head up the Royal Arch trail until a point directly East of the WC Fields Pinnacle. When the stairs head left of a large boulder, skirt it on the right (see photo). When you reach the old abandoned Royal Arch trail, head left for 40’ until it is possible to cross the drainage to the base of the SE arête of the WC Fields Pinnacle. Head right, passing Queen Anne’s Head, to the start of the 1911 Gully. Follow the 1911 Gully route until past the ferns to find the staging area.

 

Other approach options exist: Climb Queen Anne’s Head. Or climb an East Face route to the left edge and rappel into the 1911 Gully from one of the existing sport route anchors. It is also possible to access the start by scrambling through the Ghetto and over the notch behind Queen Anne’s Head.

 

 

 

If different from the approach, a description of the descent, (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails, a description of the trail condition and whether there is a durable surface, such as rock.  Include photographs of the descent.):

Descent from the climb is to lower back to the staging area.  Many options exist to leave the 1911 Gully. You can climb to the top of the Third from the top of this route, you can climb the 1911 Gully from the base of this route, to the eye bolt atop the SW Chimney.  These two options would have you hike out the standard Third Flatiron trail down the North side.  Not the greatest way down, but the most direct is to do two rappells from trees at the bottom of the gully and hike out the way you came in.

A description of the area at the base of the climb (include existing levels of soil compaction, existence of a durable surface such as rock, and existing soil erosion.  Include photographs of the area at the base of the climb.):

 

The staging area is a low angle slab of solid rock.

 

 

Has all reconnaissance work that can be reasonably done, short of placing any hardware, been done?

Yes, the climb has been thoroughly inspected.                                    

Has the route been top roped?  Is there loose rock?  Is it extremely overhanging?

The route has been top roped at a grade between 5.10+ and 5.11a. The rock quality is very good.

Any additional notes:

none