Route Name: DK Superstar

Application Status:

Application Cycle: 2020

Rock Formation: Shanahan Crags

Number of lead bolts to be placed: 16

Number of anchor bolts to be placed: 3

Route Difficulty:5.12

Route Diagrams:

Proposed Route:

This begins about 20 feet to the right of "Shoulder Season," my other proposal in this cycle, off a ramp of solid rock beneath the wall. The route follows edges and corner features left of a prominent green lichen streak to a rest at about 35 meters (4 meters left of the midway anchor on "Shoulder Season". From here, the route climbs a difficult overhang, skirts a big roof on its left, and finishes on a slab leading into a nice finger crack. The anchor will be above a roof (so the rope runs smoothly) at about 50 meters. The anchor will be about 4 meters left of the anchor of "Shoulder Season". The sunny exposure will make this an excellent mid-winter route option. Combined with "Shoulder Season" these two lines would be well worth a visit for a day of good, hard climbing.

Name Meaning:

Not provided

Existing Route Information

Existing Route Diagrams

A description of the approach (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails leading to the climb and condition of the trail, and state whether there is a durable surface, such as rock.

The approach starts from Cragmoor. Hike the North Shanahan Trail to the Mesa Trail, then turn left (south) and walk for about 10 minutes until you reach a drainage just beyond an open meadow (with some bouldering). From here, a climber's path -- a faint path on rocks and dirt, then grass -- leads up the drainage, then up the hillside on the right to the Shanahan Crags. These are located approximately a quarter-mile from the Mesa Trail. The South Summit is about 5 minutes uphill from the Eastern Crag -- the first of the Shanahan Crags one encounters (about 50 minutes total to the south face of South Shanahan Crag). The base of the entire south face is talus and rocks interspersed with dirt.In the attached photo ("Shanahan approach") the South Shanahan Crag has route #759, which is the right margin of the south face (not visible in photo). Route #658 on the right is on The Slab.

If different from the approach, a description of the descent, (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails, a description of the trail condition and whether there is a durable surface, such as rock. Include photographs of the descent.):

The descent from the proposed route is to lower (or rappel) from the top anchor down to the intermediate anchor at ~35 meters *with a 70-meter rope. From here, one more lower (or rappel) will reach the ground *with a 70-meter rope.Reverse the approach to reach the trailhead.

A description of the area at the base of the climb (include existing levels of soil compaction, existence of a durable surface such as rock, and existing soil erosion. Include photographs of the area at the base of the climb.):

The base of the route is a mix of dirt, with some low vegetation, and pure rock. It is be easy to place packs and gear on the rock itself, thus minimizing impact to the staging area (see attached: "Shanahan base").

Has all reconnaissance work that can be reasonably done, short of placing any hardware, been done?

Base Area Photos

Has the route been top roped? Is there loose rock? Is it extremely overhanging?

Yes, I toproped the entire route. There is a little bit of loose rock -- a few small, isolated blocks and flakes. Overall, the rock is solid. The bottom third of the wall is very slightly overhanging, then it turns vertical, and finally it's a bit slabby. The route feels about mid-5.12 in difficulty.

Any additional notes:

Here is a second beautiful and independent line up great rock on the south face of South Shanahan Crag. This begins about 20 feet to the right of "Shoulder Season," my other proposal in this cycle, off a ramp of solid rock beneath the wall. The route follows edges and corner features left of a prominent green lichen streak to a rest at about 35 meters (4 meters left of the midway anchor on "Shoulder Season". From here, the route climbs a difficult overhang, skirts a big roof on its left, and finishes on a slab leading into a nice finger crack. The anchor will be above a roof (so the rope runs smoothly) at about 50 meters. The anchor will be about 4 meters left of the anchor of "Shoulder Season".The sunny exposure will make this an excellent mid-winter route option. Combined with "Shoulder Season" these two lines would be well worth a visit for a day of good, hard climbing.