Route Name: Department of War

Application Status:

Application Cycle: current

Rock Formation: Finger Flatiron

Number of lead bolts to be placed: 10

Number of anchor bolts to be placed: 2

Route Difficulty:5.10

Route Diagrams:

Proposed Route:

”Department of War” is a new proposed warm-up route on the Finger Flatiron, which is growing to be a quality 5.11 crag in the Flatirons. This route starts on the same comfortable ledge and staging area where Sustainability Crisis begins. It is about 10 feet to the left of it. Begin with some high quality face climbing on leftward leaning features straight up. The middle of the route is the easiest section, with beautiful sculpted holds and giant cobbles. The upper half of the route continues on good stone to near the top of the formation.

Name Meaning:

The name “Department of War” comes from the recently renamed Department of Defense. There are currently no routes on the entire Mountain Project catalog with this name.

Existing Route Information

Existing Route Diagrams

A description of the approach (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails leading to the climb and condition of the trail, and state whether there is a durable surface, such as rock.

There are two possible approaches from NCAR, but the recommended approach is to start at the Mallory Cave trail and follow the trail to just before the cave. At a marked junction, take the climbers trail on the right, heading up past Red Devil and to the Box. As shown in the photo below, a small trail branches to the left from near the top of the main trail, and the west end of the Box. Follow this dirt trail south for about 30 yards past a roof/cave near the west side of the Finger Flatiron. Descend down to the south, encountering some talus/scree, along the West face of the Finger another 50 yards or so to a prominent gully. Head east up the gully over large talus and rocks and you arrive at a large ledge where Sustainability Crisis begins.

If different from the approach, a description of the descent, (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails, a description of the trail condition and whether there is a durable surface, such as rock. Include photographs of the descent.):

The descent will entail lowering or rappelling from the anchor at the top of the pitch. Climbers would then reverse the approach, returning down the Finger/Box/Red Devil trail to the Mallory Cave trail and back to NCAR.

A description of the area at the base of the climb (include existing levels of soil compaction, existence of a durable surface such as rock, and existing soil erosion. Include photographs of the area at the base of the climb.):

The staging area at the base is a flat, comfortable, rocky ledge with no vegetation.

Has all reconnaissance work that can be reasonably done, short of placing any hardware, been done?

Base Area Photos

Has the route been top roped? Is there loose rock? Is it extremely overhanging?

Yes, the route has been top roped clean. There is little to no remaining loose rock. The rock is steep to vertical but not overhanging. As such, it was relatively easy to inspect and climb in its entirety.

Any additional notes:

The proposed route will be the easiest bolt-protected route on the Finger. It has fun movement and will be the standard warm-up route in the area. The rock on this south face is very well-featured with many holds and possible lines. A climber can enjoy a full winter day here between Department of War (5.10), Sustainability Crisis (5.11), Disaster Capitalism (5.11), and South Side of the Sky (5.11+).