Route Name: Tufa Route

Application Status: Approved

Application Cycle: 2013

Rock Formation: Seal Rock

Number of lead bolts to be placed: 10

Number of anchor bolts to be placed: 2

Route Difficulty:5.14

Route Diagrams:

Not provided

Proposed Route:

Tufa Route features a very difficult, thin, crimpy boulder problem past the proposed fourth bolt to sustained climbing on laybacks and sloping pods, followed by a good rest in a heart-shaped hueco at mid-height. From the rest it moves right along the right of the twin tufas on good holds that quickly diminish to sloping sidepulls interspersed with the occasional crimp. The climbing is sustained, technical, and bouldery all the way to the final two bolts, where the difficulty backs off to 5.12/12+. There are multiple hard cruxes throughout the climb, which is continuously overhanging with only the one rest. The rock is good throughout, though due to the difficult of staying into the overhanging (110-degree) wall on toprope to clean, a few small friable flakes will need to be removed when equipping the climb. There is zero potential for natural gear, and the route would need to be bolted to be viable as a lead climb.

Name Meaning:

Not provided

Existing Route Information

Existing Route Diagrams

A description of the approach (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails leading to the climb and condition of the trail, and state whether there is a durable surface, such as rock.

The approach is via the designated but unsigned Harmon Cave Trail, an OSMP Trail that leaves the Mesa Trail near Bear Canyon and heads west to the eponymous cave. From the cave, a designated climber-access path heads south toward Seal Rock, and has traditionally been used to access the east- and north-face climbs. Where this trail hits the northeast toe of the rock, a 100-yard spur trail switches back south along the base of the Seal Pup to a saddle at the bottom of Seal Rock's south face. From here a gently inclined gully leads up along the south face below the climbs.

If different from the approach, a description of the descent, (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails, a description of the trail condition and whether there is a durable surface, such as rock. Include photographs of the descent.):

The descent will be via a lower-off from the top of the climb, which deposits you back on the big rock and gully below the climb.

A description of the area at the base of the climb (include existing levels of soil compaction, existence of a durable surface such as rock, and existing soil erosion. Include photographs of the area at the base of the climb.):

The staging area at the base of the climb is comprised of compact brown, gravely soil with minimal/no vegetation. The area is flat and well contained with little to no potential for erosion. There is one large (car-sized) boulder embedded in the gully down and slightly to climber's right of the start of the route. As mentioned, the staging area is the same as for the existing climb Choose Life, and no additional staging impact will be created by the addition of the Tufa Route.

Has all reconnaissance work that can be reasonably done, short of placing any hardware, been done?

Base Area Photos

Has the route been top roped? Is there loose rock? Is it extremely overhanging?

Due to the severely overhanging nature of the rock, a consistent 110-degree wall, and the severity of the sequences (small size of the holds) it was difficult to stay in in multiple sections and work every move. There were also only five spots for marginal directional gear in 85 feet, which made it hard to stay in to the rock, though the applicants did their best. About half the climb has been done free, where you could stay in near the directional gear, and the applicants are confident upon inspecting and grabbing all the available holds that the route provides enough features to be freed in its entirety.

Any additional notes:

Not provided