Route Name: “Bar Gnar” (working title):

Application Status: Approved

Application Cycle: 2012

Rock Formation: Der Zerkle

Number of lead bolts to be placed: 4

Number of anchor bolts to be placed:

Route Difficulty:5.9+/10-

Route Diagrams:

Not provided

Proposed Route:

Description Install a new four-bolt sport climb, with a double-bolt anchor, on the left side of the west face of Der Zerkle, Dinosaur Mountain. Detailed Description “Bar Gnar” moves up a thin seam at the start to a first clip twelve feet up, after which you encounter a 5.9+ face crux on thin edges. Above this you can place a small TCU (Metolus No. 1 or 0) and or an RP/Stopper in the seam out left to protect a moderate mantel move onto the ledge. Above the ledge, the climb moves up solid, sustained red-brown stone on huecos and crimper edges at 5.9+/10a. It is an aesthetic, solid moderate climb in keeping with the difficulty and quality of the other routes on the wall, which is quite popular with climbers looking for Flatirons routes in the 5.7-to-5.11 range. At its start, Der Fuhrer climbs the huecoed and rippled face right of the small pine tree in the photo below, while Bar Gnar begins well to its left; the only possible proximity is at the roof/bulge above the mid-height ledge. Above the break/ledge, Der Furhrer stays in a trough-like feature right of the upper headwall and then steps right again into a wide crack, while “Bar Gnar” tackles the headwall directly, with the climbing on the two routes becoming farther apart the higher you climb. The proposed climb, Choose Life, is on the central south face of Seal Rock, which to date has no bolted climbs save an old anchor at the lip of the wall twenty feet right of the proposed climb. It is a 95-foot climb that begins with an arching 5.12a crack-like feature before traversing left (5.12-) into the streak proper; from there, unrelenting 5.13 and 5.13+ climbing follows the streak to the top of the wall. The applicants propose using at most eleven protection bolts, plus an additional two bolts with rings-and-chain at the anchor; a mixture of traditional and bolted protection can be used on the initial thirty feet, after which the climb offers no opportunities for natural gear. Given the sustained nature of the climbing and paucity of clipping stances on the top half, some of the bolts will have to be somewhat widely spaced—more than a body length apart—as a matter of course, though the route will still be absolutely safe. There is also an anchor at the lip of the wall between Primate and Choose Life that was installed in the late 1980s before the bolting ban, in anticipation of establishing a sport climb on the face below.

Name Meaning:

Not provided

Existing Route Information

Existing Route Diagrams

A description of the approach (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails leading to the climb and condition of the trail, and state whether there is a durable surface, such as rock.

The approach is via the designated but unsigned Harmon Cave Trail, an OSMP Trail that leaves the Mesa Trail near Bear Canyon and heads west to the eponymous cave. From the cave, a designated climber-access path heads south toward Seal Rock, and has traditionally been used to access the east- and north-face climbs. Where this trail hits the northeast toe of the rock, a 100-yard spur trail switches back south along the base of the Seal Pup to a saddle at the bottom of Seal Rock’s south face. From here a gently inclined gully leads up along the south face below the climbs.

If different from the approach, a description of the descent, (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails, a description of the trail condition and whether there is a durable surface, such as rock. Include photographs of the descent.):

The descent will be via a lower-off anchor, directly back to the staging area. The descent will be via a lower-off from the top of the climb, which deposits you back at the staging area.

A description of the area at the base of the climb (include existing levels of soil compaction, existence of a durable surface such as rock, and existing soil erosion. Include photographs of the area at the base of the climb.):

The base is the top (northwest) end of the climber-access trail and the standard cliff-base staging area, a durable, semi-flat surface of hardpacked dirt and rock with trees all around. The staging area at the base of the climb is comprised of compact brown soil mixed with talus-sized rocks. It is flat or gradually inclined, with one large (car-sized) boulder embedded in the gully down and slightly to climber’s right of the start of the route.

Has all reconnaissance work that can be reasonably done, short of placing any hardware, been done?

Base Area Photos

Has the route been top roped? Is there loose rock? Is it extremely overhanging?

Having an independent anchor will reduce anchor/lowering/toproping bottlenecks on this section of the wall. The route has been toproped by the applicant and several other climbers in his party, as well FHRC representatives. It climbs a nice, clean red-brown face with no loose rock. Choose Life was redpointed on toprope in 2002, and takes a clean, striking line up an overhanging black streak on one of the steepest parts of the face. The south face of Seal Rock is at present home to three other climbs: Jade Gate (5.11b, traditional), Skin Flute (5.12-, toprope/traditional), andPrimate (5.13 toprope/traditional). Jade Gateand Skin Flute are 15 feet apart on the lower wall; Primate sits 100 feet uphill (west) from those; and the start of Choose Life is 30 feet uphill from the start of Primate.

Any additional notes:

Public comments (archived): FHRC Overview of the application: Complete Voting Results: Approved OSMP Decision: Approved PUBLIC COMMENTS: