Route Name: Bolt Addition: Cornucopia

Application Status:

Application Cycle: 2019

Rock Formation: The Box

Number of lead bolts to be placed: 1

Number of anchor bolts to be placed:

Route Difficulty:5.13a

Route Diagrams:

Not provided

Proposed Route:

Cornucopia is an existing sport route on the scooped out South face of the Box formation on Dinosaur Mountain. It's a 5.13a and rumored to be the first rap-bolted route in the Flatirons, put up over 30 years ago. Dale Goddard is the first ascentionist. This route is a classic and one of the best of its grade in all of the Flatirons. It currently has 6 modern and sound ½" expansion bolts. A mediocre #2-#3 camalot placement is available to protect groundfall potential between the first two bolts. I'm proposing here that a 7th bolt be added between the current 1st and 2nd bolts in order to improve safety and wall aesthetics at The Box. The distance between the 1st and 2nd bolts on the route is currently ~16ft. A long stick clip does not span this gap. The route starts with a thin V4ish boulder problem leading to a mantel into a large pod on the route in between these two bolts. Once the mantel is completed, the top left portion of the pod can accept a #2-#3 Camalot. A fall during the mantel would be scary at least and possibly injurious. The second bolt is just out of reach of the good stance at this pod and thus it is difficult to hang a draw. A fall trying to hang the 2nd draw or clip it would certainly be serious. I reached out to Dale Goddard, the F.A.ist and posed the question to him, asking for his thoughts. Here's the most pertinent portion of his kind response to my query: "The placement of the bolts on The Cornucopia reflected an ethic of its time in which every bolt was viewed as a taint on the rock. That drove us to use as few bolts as possible -- even if this meant inconvenient placements or [required] a rack of all draws and one cam. In retrospect it seems silly. As you alluded, the result is just long slings on the rock, which, while technically removable are, in practice, fixed. So with the benefit of more perspective on the route and how it's climbed, I'd say go for it." Without the bolt, the route will continue to get some traffic. People will mostly circumnavigate placing any gear by trying to swing over from Discipline, using extra large stick clip devices, lowering in from the top to hang the draws and extended-sling-apparatus to protect the pod section, or just going for it. With the bolt, Cornucopia will remain classic, physically challenging, and psychologically challenging as an incredible old-school-style sport route in the Flatirons. It will eliminate most of the fall-related dangers low on the route and make Cornucopia safer and more accessible to all. It will also eliminate the common use of a really long sling at the 2nd bolt (see picture), which improves safety and aesthetics.

Name Meaning:

Not provided

Existing Route Information

Existing Route Diagrams

A description of the approach (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails leading to the climb and condition of the trail, and state whether there is a durable surface, such as rock.

The approach, descent, and cliff base area are already well established and would all be unaffected by the bolt addition.

If different from the approach, a description of the descent, (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails, a description of the trail condition and whether there is a durable surface, such as rock. Include photographs of the descent.):

Not provided

A description of the area at the base of the climb (include existing levels of soil compaction, existence of a durable surface such as rock, and existing soil erosion. Include photographs of the area at the base of the climb.):

The route begins atop a ~25' boulder/flake which leans against the main wall. You step off the boulder onto small hand and foot holds to gain the beginning of the route and the first bolt. The current base of the climb and staging area for this wall mostly consist of rock and erosion resistant flatter dirt areas.

Has all reconnaissance work that can be reasonably done, short of placing any hardware, been done?

Base Area Photos

Has the route been top roped? Is there loose rock? Is it extremely overhanging?

Not provided

Any additional notes:

Not provided