Route Name: Neph Son

Application Status: Approved

Application Cycle: 2019

Rock Formation: Hillbilly Rock

Number of lead bolts to be placed: 13

Number of anchor bolts to be placed: 2

Route Difficulty:5.13+

Route Diagrams:

Proposed Route:

Neph Son climbs the right side of the severely overhanging prow/buttress on the central/left side of the west face of Hillbilly Rock, right of the existing climb Uncle Dad, which climbs the prow via its left side. Because of its severely overhanging nature, with trees behind, and lack of directional gear, the route has only been inspected on rappel. However, the applicant was able to closely inspect the route along its entire length by staying clipped into the bolts on Uncle Dad as directionals, then lowering out into space to get a look. Neph Son will climb a vertical 30-foot lower face (~5.12) on nice dark rock to the point where the wall steepens. Here, a difficult rightward traverse on undercling flakes (~5.13) leads to the base of the "purple eye" pothole-like feature in the middle of the wall; a difficult crux getting past and over the eye (~5.13+) along its left side leads to the radically steep headwall, which is featured, with solid rock and larger holds, along its length (~5.12+). The route will move up this headwall onto a lower-angle finishing arête (5.10/5.11) before ending at anchors at the lip of the wall. The climb is approximately 100 feet long.

Name Meaning:

Not provided

Existing Route Information

Existing Route Diagrams

A description of the approach (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails leading to the climb and condition of the trail, and state whether there is a durable surface, such as rock.

The approach is via NCAR. Take the Mallory Cave Trail to the Mesa Trail, head south to where the Mesa Trail traverses Skunk Canyon. Head west into Skunk Canyon on the climber's approach trail, then, 100 yards into the canyon, head due north up the first gully, between Hillbilly Rock and Ridge 1, to reach the west side of Hillbilly Rock on an existing climber's trail. The trail is on durable, hard-packed dirt and talus.

If different from the approach, a description of the descent, (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails, a description of the trail condition and whether there is a durable surface, such as rock. Include photographs of the descent.):

The descent is via lowering off the route back to the staging area, and via the approach trail.

A description of the area at the base of the climb (include existing levels of soil compaction, existence of a durable surface such as rock, and existing soil erosion. Include photographs of the area at the base of the climb.):

The staging area is the same as for Horsefly Hootenanny—hardpacked dirt and rock, and is flat and comfortable for belaying.

Has all reconnaissance work that can be reasonably done, short of placing any hardware, been done?

Base Area Photos

Has the route been top roped? Is there loose rock? Is it extremely overhanging?

The route has not been toproped, but some holds have been grabbed while lowering off Uncle Dad. There are a few small flakes in the "purple eye" feature that need to be removed, but the route is otherwise on solid rock. It is extremely overhanging throughout its length.

Any additional notes:

This is the most direct and likely the most difficult line on the west face of Hillbilly, and will likely be 5.13+ or 5.14-. It is long, aesthetic, sustained pitch on excellent rock.