Route Name: Dinosaur Jr.

Application Status: Approved

Application Cycle: 2014

Rock Formation: Dinosaur Rock

Number of lead bolts to be placed: 4

Number of anchor bolts to be placed:

Route Difficulty:5.10-

Route Diagrams:

Not provided

Proposed Route:

It is mostly near-vertical face climbing with no opportunity for natural gear placements, and so bolt protection is recommended in the form of four clips (plus possibly one optional/supplemental piece of gear between bolts 1 and 2, over the lip of the roof) to double-bolt anchors. The climbing is reminiscent of Bidoigt (a 5.10a on Der Freischutz) in length and difficulty with the exception of the start. Dinosaur Jr. has a very unique start. It begins in a cave-like feature and requires some bizarre body positions and techniques to exit the steep cave and reach the face climbing. After exiting the cave, delicate balance and pebble crimping lead up the steepening face. Diagonal rails provide fun sloper holds along the way to a crux bulge about 3/4s of the way up. After the bulge there are some solid gear placements that would be optional since it’s an easy jaunt to the anchor.

Name Meaning:

Not provided

Existing Route Information

Existing Route Diagrams

A description of the approach (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails leading to the climb and condition of the trail, and state whether there is a durable surface, such as rock.

To access this climb, follow the Mallory Cave Trail to the point where a short climber’s trail cuts off to the left for the sport climbs on the north face: e.g., The Shaft, Milk Bone, etc. Follow the main Mallory Cave trail up two more switchbacks past here then follow an established climber-approach trail up and south through a notch. An included photo shows the view from the saddle to The Mallory Cave Trail down along this climber’s approach trail.

If different from the approach, a description of the descent, (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails, a description of the trail condition and whether there is a durable surface, such as rock. Include photographs of the descent.):

This is the trail that leads down to the west-face walk-off and the routes on the lower west face of Dinosaur Rock: Tracks are for Kids, Big Bob Cranks and Triceratops Tracks. Rapping/lowering from the anchor will land you on an established climbers trail directly back at the base of the route, at the staging area.

A description of the area at the base of the climb (include existing levels of soil compaction, existence of a durable surface such as rock, and existing soil erosion. Include photographs of the area at the base of the climb.):

Once you start downhill south from the saddle, it is only 40 more feet on solid rock to reach the base of the proposed climb, Dinosaur Jr. The climb is in a beautiful south-facing spot overlooking Bear Canyon, but the route won’t be visible from the Mallory Cave Trail.

Has all reconnaissance work that can be reasonably done, short of placing any hardware, been done?

Base Area Photos

Has the route been top roped? Is there loose rock? Is it extremely overhanging?

It will be possible to toprope a few variations of the Dinosaur Jr. face from its anchor (pending approval). The route has been top roped.

Any additional notes:

Not provided