Route Name: Long Journey

Application Status: Approved

Application Cycle: 2014

Rock Formation: Sacred Cliffs

Number of lead bolts to be placed: 6

Number of anchor bolts to be placed:

Route Difficulty:5.12-

Route Diagrams:

Not provided

Proposed Route:

Pebble Beach, perhaps one of the more “popular” areas of the Sacred Cliffs, includes 15 different routes according to the most recent guidebook. All of the sport routes use bolts for protection, with little or no available natural gear. A few more routes exist on a lower tier below the routes listed above (to the west and south). The climbing involves vertical to overhanging crimps in a beautiful position. The rock is crisp, incut, and rather sharp in general. Although the guidebook lists this climb at 5.11c, we thought it was quite a bit harder. The initial climbing involves powerful 5.10 and 5.11 crimping, followed by a 5.12- cruxy move around a bulge. This is followed by sustained 5.11 crimpy climbing, then a final 5.12- crux near the top, followed by 5.10 slab moves to the anchor. We are proposing 6 bolts to protect the 50 feet of climbing as shown in the following photo — there is no possibility for natural protection. One stray bolt does exist, about 15 feet off the ground — perhaps a partial installation of the climb before the bolting ban. We propose to replace this bolt with what would be the second bolt of the pitch. Overall, it’s a very sustained, high quality climb on bullet rock.

Name Meaning:

Not provided

Existing Route Information

Existing Route Diagrams

A description of the approach (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails leading to the climb and condition of the trail, and state whether there is a durable surface, such as rock.

To get to Pebble Beach, take the standard approach to the Sacred Cliffs, following the Green Mountain West Ridge Trail toward the summit of Green Mountain. Just a short distance below the actual summit, perhaps 200 yards below, the climber’s trail forks off right to the south; there is a visible trail and a white sign within view from the main trail. From there, follow the same approach trail along the ridge back to the West Ridge Trail.

If different from the approach, a description of the descent, (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails, a description of the trail condition and whether there is a durable surface, such as rock. Include photographs of the descent.):

The descent initially involves a rappel off the top of the route (Long Journey), approximately 50 feet to the ground.

A description of the area at the base of the climb (include existing levels of soil compaction, existence of a durable surface such as rock, and existing soil erosion. Include photographs of the area at the base of the climb.):

The trail is thin but continuous, and mostly follows the south ridge on dirt or duff, staying just west of the ridge wherever large rock formations are present on the ridge. It’s about a half-mile walk from the main trail to the Pebble Beach crag. The staging area is a rocky base area with little to no vegetation. Some small talus exists, but mostly large rock slabs are present. Not much soil is present nearby.

Has all reconnaissance work that can be reasonably done, short of placing any hardware, been done?

Base Area Photos

Has the route been top roped? Is there loose rock? Is it extremely overhanging?

The proposed climb, Long Journey (#16 in the overview photo ), is currently a toprope with a 2-bolt anchor at the top, though it is not known when the anchor was installed or who did the first ascent. It more or less follows the blunt northwest arête of the Pebble Beach formation. Immediately right of this proposed bolted climb, from left to right, are Dan and Randy Show (bolted 5.10d), Ray Honed (bolted 5.10c), Mono Ray (top rope 5.10c), Catching Rays (bolted 5.10b), and Ray Ban (top rope 5.10d). They are, from left to right, as follows: 98-pound Weakling (5.9 X chopped/TR now), Wide I Do It (trad 5.10a), Wishful Thinking (trad 5.8), Rip Tide (toprope 5.11a), Pebble Beach (5.10a chopped/TR), Crater Beach (5.10a chopped/TR), and Red Tide (5.9 X/solo). There is no loose rock anywhere; the natural rock is very clean and sharp!

Any additional notes:

Not provided