Route Name: Overhang Left

Application Status: Awaiting

Application Cycle: 2025

Rock Formation: Overhang Rock

Number of lead bolts to be placed: 10

Number of anchor bolts to be placed: 2

Route Difficulty:5.13

Route Diagrams:

Proposed Route:

This will be the second sport route on the east face of Overhang Rock. It tackles a steep section of the wall, about 10 feet left of the original line I proposed (The Overhang) that ascends the central arête. This line takes a steep, bulging wall up nice-looking red and orange rock to finish up a shallow, left-facing corner on the final bulge. It’s about 75 feet tall, quite overhanging and will likely be in the mid-5.13 range. The recommended name – as basic as it sounds – indicates the feature the rock is named after.

Name Meaning:

Not provided

Existing Route Information

Existing Route Diagrams

A description of the approach (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails leading to the climb and condition of the trail, and state whether there is a durable surface, such as rock.

The approach begins at the Bear Canyon trailhead, then cuts left onto the main canyon trail beneath NCAR and straight toward the Flatirons. After some meandering switchbacks turn right onto the Bear Canyon trail where the main fork leads toward the Mesa Trail. Once the right fork veers left there’s a nice view of the east face of Overhang Rock. After passing underneath Overhang Rock to the north, a climber’s trail (packed dirt, rocks) cuts left up into the woods and circles back toward Overhang Rock’s west face on a faint trail and over talus. Pass underneath the north face of the wall (and Rogue’s Arete) to access the east face via boulder-hopping. Walk uphill beneath the face for about 100 yards (packed dirt, rocks, dried grass and low brush) to the base of the proposed route. *Alternatively, once beneath the west face one can walk uphill beneath it to the notch at the south end of Overhang Rock, pop over to the east side, and walk downhill (packed dirt, rocks, pine needles) to the base of the proposed route.

If different from the approach, a description of the descent, (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails, a description of the trail condition and whether there is a durable surface, such as rock. Include photographs of the descent.):

The descent is the same as the approach.

A description of the area at the base of the climb (include existing levels of soil compaction, existence of a durable surface such as rock, and existing soil erosion. Include photographs of the area at the base of the climb.):

The base of the climb consists of large, flat boulders and compact dirt and soil obscured by some dry, bushy material (flattened from winter snow).

Has all reconnaissance work that can be reasonably done, short of placing any hardware, been done?

Base Area Photos

Has the route been top roped? Is there loose rock? Is it extremely overhanging?

I was able to feel the holds on the overhanging gray rock at the top of the route, which will be the crux. However, the route is too steep to toprope and there were no opportunities for gear to hold me in to the wall. There is some loose rock, especially on the first half, but it appears to consist of loose flakes that can easily be removed. The base rock on this wall, in some places just underneath some friable flakes, is as solid as I’ve seen in the Flatirons. Yes, this route is extremely overhanging. My rope is visible in the first route line photo, hanging in a plumb line over the lip of the overhang. You can see why toproping the route is impossible without directionals.

Any additional notes:

Because I wasn’t able to toprope the route, I first plan to place a few RBs (removable bolts) so I can properly assess the route’s difficulty. If for any reason it’s not as amazing as I believe it is, or if it seems too difficult, I’m willing to abandon the route and patch and camouflage the RB holes. This is extremely unlikely, as I’m sure this climb will be stellar. But I just want you to know I’m open to that possibility.