Route Name: Sick for Sleeping (REVISED)

Application Status: Approved

Application Cycle: 2011

Rock Formation: The Slab

Number of lead bolts to be placed: 11

Number of anchor bolts to be placed:

Route Difficulty:5.11c

Route Diagrams:

Not provided

Proposed Route:

Description At the ledge there is an obvious spot for a first bolt to protect the leader from a ground fall at the first 5.7 bulge (no opportunity for natural gear); since the initial application in June, this bolt has been repositioned such that the rope and belayer won’t hinder anyone crossing the lower ledge to access Undertow. Above this bolt there is a short section of low-angled rock and a second bolt protecting moderate climbing leading to a ledgy band and then the upper wall, where the 5.11 climbing begins in earnest. The next 50 feet to the anchor uses 6 bolts, climbing with 5.11b/c moves past 3 bolts to a good rest and a fourth bolt, then an 11a/b crux past a final 2 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. This route will be a worthwhile addition to the West Face of The Slab, and the applicant proposes to use half-inch stainless-steel hardware. At 11c it fills in a gap for easier routes on a formation at present weighted toward 5.12/5.13 climbs. It climbs an independent line 15 feet away from the nearest route, Hippotamus (10d). The climbing is on mostly solid edges and pockets with aesthetic movement up a slightly overhanging section of tan and brown rock. The climb begins with 20 feet of 5.10 climbing, and then encounters a tricky 5.11 overhanging bulge to the anchors. The first bolt is located 20 feet above the ground in the overhanging section, and is only clippable from a very awkward stance, by reaching out into the overhang while unprotected from a groundfall. (There is the possibility for a very marginal small TCU and slinged thread, through a fragile hole in the rock, but neither option comes until you’re almost to the bolt and neither should be relied upon to prevent a groundfall. The scary first clip deters people from doing this climb, and is risky for those not comfortable at the grade. The bolt would be placed such that the lower awkward 5.10 stand-up move would be protected, as would the stretch-out to clip the first bolt in the overhang. This addition will make Touch Monkey significantly safer and more enjoyable to users, and bring the total number of bolts to five, which is appropriate for a 50-foot climb. It will also give good protection for shorter climbers as they stretch for the high first clip, in the roof, as well as provide a backup against any potential groundfall should the original first bolt fail. The applicant has spoken to the first ascentionist, Paul Glover, and he approves adding the lower first bolt. Comments: No, do not add a bolt. Description We propose adding one new protection bolt between the ground and the current first bolt on Short Attention Span to protect against groundfalls. Area Overhang Rock, Bear Canyon Detailed Description Short Attention Span is located on the west face of Overhang Rock. The climb, a 5.11d and the easiest sport route on the wall, ascends the vertical, lichen-streaked face on the south end of the face. Short Attention Span’s first bolt is located approximately 25’ above the ground and involves unprotected 5.10 climbing to reach the clipping stance. Some of the holds below this first clip are less than bomber and could possibly snap. The landing zone consists of first hitting the lower-angled slab at the beginning of the pitch, and then a large, sharp flake with a wide crack and large boulders. A groundfall would most likely land a climber in the ER with bone-breaking injuries and/or lacerations. Such a potentially injurious runout is out of character with the remainder of the pitch, other sport-routes on the W Face of Overhang Rock and Flatirons, bolt-protected climbing in general. We have spoken with at least four people who have climbed the route, three of whom were leading and are 5.12-and-up climbers, and all strongly supported an additional bolt to protect against a groundfall. Some climbers competent at the grade choose not to lead Short Attention Span because of the risk. We propose adding a bolt at approximately 16′ to avoid a groundfall — you would climb unprotected 5.8 to this point then the bolt would protect 5.10 face moves getting to the original first bolt. This addition will make the climb significantly safer and more enjoyable. It will also allow climbers at the 5.11 level at least one route at the crag they can climb safely. For those who are pursuing the other climbs on the wall, the extra bolt will make Short Attention Span a much nicer warm-up. The first ascent party approves of adding a new bolt. Comments:

Name Meaning:

Not provided

Existing Route Information

Existing Route Diagrams

A description of the approach (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails leading to the climb and condition of the trail, and state whether there is a durable surface, such as rock.

The route starts just right of the approach ledge to Undertow.

If different from the approach, a description of the descent, (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails, a description of the trail condition and whether there is a durable surface, such as rock. Include photographs of the descent.):

Applicant proposes adding a new, lower bolt at approximately 12’ above the ground, or 8’ below the existing first bolt, on a vertical panel before you move into the roof.

A description of the area at the base of the climb (include existing levels of soil compaction, existence of a durable surface such as rock, and existing soil erosion. Include photographs of the area at the base of the climb.):

Not provided

Has all reconnaissance work that can be reasonably done, short of placing any hardware, been done?

Base Area Photos

Has the route been top roped? Is there loose rock? Is it extremely overhanging?

It is a 75-foot 5.11c and has been redpointed on toprope.

Any additional notes:

Public comments (archived): FHRC Overview of the application: Complete Voting Results: Approved OSMP Decision: Pending PUBLIC COMMENTS:
 FHRC Overview of the application: Complete Voting Results: Approved OSMP Decision: Pending PUBLIC COMMENTS: