Route Name: Soul Rebel

Application Status: Approved

Application Cycle: 2025

Rock Formation: Fiddlehead

Number of lead bolts to be placed: 7

Number of anchor bolts to be placed: 2

Route Difficulty:5.12+

Route Diagrams:

Proposed Route:

The proposed route ascends an arete on the west side of the Fiddlehead, branching off from the start of the existing route “Fernal Crescent” (published as “Fertile Crescent”). The route shares a start below an obvious, striking dihedral about 30 ft downhill from Castles Made of Sand, and branches right on the overhanging arete while Fernal Crescent ascends the dihedral. The route is short and bouldery, featuring cool movement on excellent rock, terminating in a boulder problem crux as the climber moves vertically onto the face. The route is about 45 ft long, and very sustained.

 

Name Meaning:

The route name, Soul Rebel, is a classic Gladiators song.

 

Existing Route Information

 Fernal Crescent, trad, 5.11+ (published as Fertile Crescent)  Castles Made of Sand, sport, 5.12  A Shadow Sickness, trad, 5.10

Existing Route Diagrams

 

 

 

A description of the approach (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails leading to the climb and condition of the trail, and state whether there is a durable surface, such as rock.

The approach follows the well-established climber’s trail to the Fiddlehead. Approach via the Fern Canyon Trail, breaking off to the north on the climber’s trail near the Superfresh boulder. Follow the standard climber’s trail to approach to the base.

 

 

 

If different from the approach, a description of the descent, (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails, a description of the trail condition and whether there is a durable surface, such as rock. Include photographs of the descent.):

Climbers can descend by lowering off the route with a 50m rope. Climbers will then reverse the approach in.

A description of the area at the base of the climb (include existing levels of soil compaction, existence of a durable surface such as rock, and existing soil erosion. Include photographs of the area at the base of the climb.):

 

The base of the climb is solid rock and dirt.

 

 

Has all reconnaissance work that can be reasonably done, short of placing any hardware, been done?

Base Area Photos

Has the route been top roped? Is there loose rock? Is it extremely overhanging?

Yes – the route has been mostly freed on TR. The route is fairly overhanging, and the rock is solid.

Any additional notes:

Not provided

 

10 replies
  1. Adam Block
    Adam Block says:

    Looks cool but the first couple bolts look quite close to Fernal possibly changing its heady nature down low.

    • Tristan Bradford
      Tristan Bradford says:

      Hey Adam. Im in touch with Eric Doub and we’re taking this into account. Plan is to make it so that you still pull that first move with the pin, and then shift right and clip a bolt which would not make sense to clip from fernal crescent. So most would just stick clip B1 of Soul rebel and be safe that way. The anchor will also serve as an anchor for Fernal Crescent instead of that nasty sling around a horn.

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