Not Fade Away
This proposed route (Not Fade Away, NFA) follows a natural line just left of Box of Rain. It follows a steep slab with thin crimps and interesting footwork, and leads to a crux roof. The difficulty is about 5.12b, the rock quality and moves are great, and it has been free climbed on top rope.
A description of existing routes on the same face of the rock formation, including the number of routes, route names, route grade, type [traditional or bolted], and approximate distance between routes (a photocopy or diagram of the existing route(s) is also required);
The proposed route is located 10 feet left of Box of Rain (5.11c) and about 20 feet left of the start of Stone Love (5.10d), on the south face of the Box. A top rope called Prow (5.12a) starts up the hill perhaps 30 feet left of NFA, and is located on the west face. Continuing up around to the north face, one encounters Sample the Dog (5.12), Fact if a Doorframe (5.11c), and others. Other routes exist on the south face, quite a bit downhill to the east from NFA, Box of Rain, and Stone Love. Cornucopia (5.13a), Discipline (5.12b), Side Line (5.7), and South Ramp (5.6) are located left to right, starting about 100 feet east of Stone Love.
A description of the approach (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails leading to the climb and condition of the trail, and state whether there is a durable surface, such as rock. Include photographs of the approach.);
The approach starts with the standard Mallory Cave trail from NCAR. Just before reaching the Mallory Cave, there is a sign labeled “Upper Dinosaur Mountain Climbing Access” that points to the right. Follow this trail up another 5 minutes to reach the Box on the right. The trail is solid, durable rock or compacted dirt all the way to the base of the climb.
If different from the approach, a description of the descent, (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails, a description of the trail condition and whether there is a durable surface, such as rock. Include photographs of the descent.);
The descent will be a 55-foot rappel to the ground from two new anchor bolts and chains. The descent trail uses the same approach trail mentioned earlier.
A description of the area at the base of the climb (include existing levels of soil compaction, existence of a durable surface such as rock, and existing soil erosion. Include photographs of the area at the base of the climb.);
The base is mostly rock and gravelly soils, with a few small plants. There is no sign of any existing soil compaction, and this area has not been used much in spite of the routes Stone Love and Box of Rain that also access this staging area.
Has all reconnaissance work that can be reasonably done, short of placing any hardware, been done?
Yes, the line has been thoroughly scoped and climbed free n top rope.
Has the route been top roped? Is there loose rock? Is it extremely overhanging?
Yes it has been top roped, and there is little or no loose rock. It is steep but only has a couple of overhanging sections.