Pink Man’s Burden, 5.11

Dinosaur Rock, Southwest Face
Application date: 9/15/09

Information from the applicant:
The proposed route (two pitches) is on the Southwest Face of Dinosaur Rock. It will climb a left-leaning traverse (5.9) on pitch one past four bolts and traditional gear to a double-bolt belay below an overhanging huecoed wall. The second pitch (5.11) will climb the huecoed wall past six bolts to a double-bolt anchor, from which you can rappel to the leaning slab below.

The route has been redpointed on toprope and thoroughly inspected for best choice of protection. It is recommended that bolts/hangers be used for protection on both pitches. The route offers traditional gear only along some parts of pitch one, with no other traditional/natural gear placements otherwise on either pitch. The proposal, then, is to use four stainless-steel half-inch bolts (and the trad gear) plus a 2-bolt anchor on pitch one; and six stainless-steel half-inch bolts plus a 2-bolt anchor on pitch two. The accompanying photo indicates bolt locations.

The route starts with a 5.9 corner to more 5.8/5.9 climbing on the left-diagonalling traverse. After much inspection, applicant determined the traverse was the best (most solid) way to access the headwall on pitch two, as the rock directly below pitch two, in the overhanging slot, is irredeemably friable. The second pitch is pumpy, featured, hueco’ed climbing (sustained 5.11) on a gently overhanging red/brown wall.

The route offers sunny, exposed 5.11 climbing on a scenic feature high above Bear Canyon. Climbers will be able to, once completing the second pitch, scramble back out the slab and then circle back around Dinosaur Rock on Mallory Cave Trail to their packs. The staging area below pitch on is a rock ledge accessed by hiking/scrambling around the south side of Dinosaur Rock, on slabs, from the Mallory Cave Trail.

FHRC Overview of the application: Complete
Voting Results: Approved
OSMP Decision: Approved

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