Route Name: Sub Kreem
Rock Formation: The Slab
Number of Bolts to be Placed: 8
Proposed Grade: 5.11
Route Description: Sub Kreem is on the west face of The Slab. It is a variation finish to the existing route Sooper Kreem. The proposed route will diverge from Sooper Kreem at the seventh bolt and climb an independent line well to the left of the Sooper Kreem crux. Using the Sooper Kreem start yields a route in the mid 5.11 range. An ideal and convenient warm up for Sooper Kreem. It will require 6 additional protection bolts and two bolt for an anchor.
Many climbers warm up on Sooper Kreem by climbing to the first crux and lowering from a single draw. Sub Kreem will provide a longer warm up that finishes at an anchor.
The City of Boulder OSMP requires a photocopy or diagram of the rock formation with the proposed route drawn in to be accompanied with the route description.
Description of Neighboring/Existing Routes: Sub Kreem is a variation to Sooper Kreem other routes include Pen 15, Super Kreme, Whipped Kreme, Rad Kreme, Undertow, Sweet Niblets, Hippopotamus, and Sick for Sleeping. Routes to the north include Trad Kreme, Whipping Post, Cookies and Kreme, Sookreem, Boys with Power Toys, Family Man, Shalosh, Film Noir, Nasty Boys, and Just Another Boys Climb. Routes further south, from left to right, include Pen 15, Super Kreme, Whipped Kreme, Rad Kreme, Undertow, Sweet Niblets, Hippopotamus, and Sick for Sleeping. Routes to the north include Trad Kreme, Whipping Post, Cookies and Kreme, Sookreem, Boys with Power Toys, Family Man, Shalosh, Film Noir, Nasty Boys, and Just Another Boys Climb.
The City of Boulder OSMP requires a description of existing routes on the same face of the rock formation, including the number of routes, route names, route grade, type [traditional or bolted], and approximate distance between routes, and a photocopy or diagram of the existing route(s).
Approach Description: The approach starts with the Fern Canyon Trail, heading towards Bear Peak. Branch off on the climbing access trail a short distance beyond the Slab overlook area. Follow this trail up another 5 minutes to reach the north and west faces of the Slab, heading uphill (south) another 2 minutes to the base of the proposed route. The trail is solid, durable rock or compacted dirt all the way to the base of the climb.
The City of Boulder OSMP requires a description of the approach, including: approximate distance(s) from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails leading to the climb, condition(s) of the trail(s), a description whether there is a durable surface, such as rock, and photographs of the approach.
Descent Description: The descent is a lower from a bolted anchor and via the approach trail.
The City of Boulder OSMP requires a description of the descent, if different from the approach, using the same evaluation criteria.
Base Area Description: The staging area is the same as the route Sooper Kreem, all bare rock and gravel soils.
The City of Boulder OSMP requires a description of the proposed route, including: existing levels of soil compaction, existence of a durable surface such as rock, existing soil erosion, and photographs of the area at the base of the climb.
Description of Route Evaluation Efforts: All reconnaissance work has been done assessing the viability of the route.
Has the route been top roped? Is there loose rock? Is it extremely overhanging?
The top of the route and the bottom of been climbed but the middle section of the route is too steep to top rope. The rock is solid and requires minimal cleaning.
The City of Boulder OSMP expects for the person(s) proposing the new route to to perform all reconnaissance work that can be reasonably done, short of placing any unapproved hardware.
Hello and thanks for allowing a review,
I find the Sooper Cream area to be too crowded already, especially with the addition of Whipped Cream and the Hunger. I think a better, independent line could be had starting from the ledge on the left and ending at the same spot. In the photo above you can see some dark red blocks and these extend down to the left onto the big ledge. My vote is for an independent pitch that avoids more congestion.
If it can be done as a separate route from Sooper that would be better. Sooper Kreem is already gang banged.
Sure, why not? It may increase crowding here even more, but people can sort it out. Is there a possibility down the line for an indepedent, direct start, even if two pitches?
Would be great if there was a direct start as Sooper Kreem is the most popular route there. Either way seems like a nice addition.
I am against adding this route to an already crowded area. I think there is a better, independent line starting from the ledge to the left. In the picture above you can see the nice, blocky red rock extend down to the left and it goes to the ledge next to PEN15. In my opinion this route would increase congestion and detract from the independent line of Sooper Cream.
I also left a reply on May 7th but it never appeared. Glitch perhaps?
Agree with the comments above, is there was an independent start that doesn’t rely on $00pr kr33m, which is already a very busy route?
Seems like there could be potential right of the second pitch of Pen 15 that might allow a separate line altogether?
The existing route may be popular, but that is not a detractor, as far as I am concerned. Adding a second line off of the top of it which may also become popular means that the line is appreciated. The added part seems independent of the existing line to the point of not changing it other than perhaps increasing the desirability of the first portion. People can cue up if they want to wait, or not at all.
As for the possibility of an independent start, that would be good, but if it is “too hard” for the folks attempting it, I imagine people will link in instead anyway, to the net effect of what is proposed above anyway.
So, as long as the base can take a bit of extra traffic, I would vote yes.
S00pr Kr33m is already the busiest route at the cliff. A lot of folks are climbing to bolt 7 or 8 and lowering off as their warm up as the area lacks a long warm (low to mid .11) that’s not too pumpy. This new variation will only increase the traffic.
Second, I have concerns about the bolting. Not the locations per se but that your route will traverse and likely standard mechanical bolts will become spinners. If the route is approved glue-ins should be used to ensure things stay put as installed. Both bolt 7 and 8 on S00pr Kr33m should be replace with glue-ins in addition.
Pretty much on the fence on this one. My spirit says yes but my mind says no.
This line was toproped by myself and Paul Pomeroy about 8 years ago. It actually comes in from the left and starts at the bolted belay for Pen 15. The name for the independent line starting from the belay out left is called “Krispy Kreem”. Our grade was around 13-. We used sketchy RP placements for directionals, but it worked out fine. I would rather see the route developed with this original vision in mind. Sooper Kreem is already too clogged as it is.
I’d rather see this as fully independent, even if a belay is required on the ledge.