Wag-Bag Pillow Fight
Route Name: Wag-Bag Pillow Fight
Rock Formation: Overhang Rock
Number of Bolts to be Placed: 19 (15 bolts on route, 4 for anchors)
Proposed Grade: 5.11
Route Description: Proposed route, Wag-Bag Pillow Fight (5.11, 45 meters), is an entirely independent line on the west face of Overhang Rock. Pitch 1 begins by traversing easy terrain up and right to small overlap, then ascends directly upward to a belay ledge (5.10, 25m., 8 bolts). Pitch 2 surmounts a tiny roof (crux), follows a left-facing dihedral to a ledge, and then continues up well featured rock to the summit ridge (5.11, 20m., 7 bolts).
A description of existing routes on the same face of the rock formation, including the number of routes, route names, route grade, type [traditional or bolted], and approximate distance between routes (a photocopy or diagram of the existing route(s) is also required): Routes on the west side of Overhang Rock, listed left to right, include: Thulsa Doom 5.12d (Sport), Snake Watching 5.13a (Sport), Ouroboros 5.12d (Sport), Honey Badger 5.13a (Sport), Tits Out for the Lads 5.12a (Sport), The Big Picture 5.12b (Sport), Missing Link 5.12b/c (Sport), Short Attention Span 5.11d (Sport), Junior Achievement 5.8 (Trad), A Chorus Line 5.9 (Trad), Shibboleth 5.8 (Trad), West Side Story 5.6 (Trad). Wag-Bag Pillow Fight is located between Short Attention Span and Junior Achievement.
A description of the approach (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails leading to the climb and condition of the trail, and state whether there is a durable surface, such as rock. Include photographs of the approach.): Approach is via the Bear Canyon Trail to the Overhang Rock climber’s trail, which leaves the Bear Canyon Trail at a point directly south of Ridge Three (Stonehenge) in Bear Canyon. The base of the west face of Overhang Rock is reached in less than 10 minutes from the Bear Canyon Trail.
If different from the approach, a description of the descent, (include approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails, a description of the trail condition and whether there is a durable surface, such as rock. Include photographs of the descent.): Descent via the approach trail.
A description of the area at the base of the climb (include existing levels of soil compaction, existence of a durable surface such as rock, and existing soil erosion. Include photographs of the area at the base of the climb.): Shares a staging area with Short Attention Span: compact dirt and rock.
Has all reconnaissance work that can be reasonably done, short of placing any hardware, been done? Exact line of the climb has been established after top-roping. Bolt locations have been worked out.
Has the route been top roped? Is there loose rock? Is it extremely overhanging? Route has been top-roped. Rock is solid.
Additional notes: Wag-Bag Pillow Fight will provide a fun, moderate two pitch outing, while the first pitch alone will offer a safe, easily accessible warm-up route for sport climbing on Overhang Rock.
Looks good, will be nice to have a warm-up on this wall.
This should be approved as an independent line, and at this grade will probably become a popular route and warm-up.
This should be approved. It will be awesome to have another 5.11 up there.
Yes! The more the merrier! Looks quality and should be approved.