The proposed line follows a very steep face on mostly thin holds to the top of the rock wall on the west end of the south face of the formation. The climbing features interesting movement and position through a complex set of features. The line has been top roped, all moves have been free climbed, and the difficulty is about 5.11d. Moves are very sustained, with mostly continuous 5.10 and 5.11 climbing throughout. Moves are generally high quality.
This topo shows bolts 1 through 5… a 6th bolt is intended above this but tree cover obscured a photo of the top of the cliff. Bolt 1 shown is about 10 feet off the ground.
The following photo shows the staging area for Stone Love and the new proposed route.
Description of existing routes on the same face of the rock formation. Including number of routes, route names, route grade, type (traditional or bolted), and approximate distance between. A photocopy with the proposed route drawn in or a diagram of the existing routes on the face is required.
This proposed route is located immediately left of the route Stone Love (5.10d, trad) on the west end of the south face. Cornucopia (13a, sport) and Discipline (12b, sport) are located to the right of Stone Love and this route. Stone Love is located about 10 feet right of this proposed line. Cornucopia is about 100 feet further downhill to the east, and Discipline is perhaps another 15 feet east of Discipline. The only other routes in this area are on the north side of the formation. Going counter-clockwise, these routes include Sample the Dog (12b sport), Fact of a Door Frame (11c trad), and Aunt Jennifer’s Tigers (10d trad), all of which are on the north side of the Box.
Description of the approach. Including approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails leading to the climb and condition of the trail, and if there is a durable surface such as rock. Pictures of the approach are required.
The approach starts with the standard Mallory Cave trail from NCAR. Just before reaching the Mallory Cave, there is a sign labeled “Upper Dinosaur Mountain Climbing Access” that points to the right. Follow this trail up another 5 minutes to reach the Box on the right. The trail is solid, durable rock or compacted dirt all the way to the base of the climb.
Description of the descent, if different than the approach. Including approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails and condition of the trail, and if there is a durable surface such as rock. Pictures of the descent, if different than the approach are required.
The descent will be a 50-foot rappel to the ground from two new anchor bolts and chains. The descent trail uses the same approach trail mentioned earlier.
Description of the area at the base of the climb. Including existing levels of soil compaction, existence of a durable surface such as rock, and existing soil erosion. Pictures of the area at the base of the climb are required.
The base is mostly rock and gravelly soils, with a few small plants. There is no sign of any existing soil compaction, and this area has not been used much in spite of the route Stone Love which accesses this staging area.
Has all reconnaissance work that can be reasonably done, short of placing any hardware, been done? Has the route been top roped? Is there loose rock? Is it extremely overhanging?
Yes, the route has been free-climbed on top rope and all moves go free, with nothing harder than 5.11d. There is only a little loose rock, and it will be cleaned prior to completion of route development. There are sections that are slightly overhanging.