The Third Flatiron is historic, scenic and maybe the most versatile crag in the Boulder area. The formation is home to many classics spanning all styles of climbing. There are East Face scrambles, there are sport routes, hard and easy trad and mixed routes, and even world class bouldering (The Ghetto). This proposed line is independent of the existing lines and will utilize natural gear placements as much as possible. The climb will start at the West Bench sharing ground with the first pitch of the historic Northwest Passage. When the second pitch of Northwest Passage heads left, this route will head straight up. It is also possible to use the start of the route West Face 5.10 to access this starting ledge. The new route will in no way affect the nature of the existing routes. The next route to the right is the Direct West Face.
The new route climbs straight up passing an ancient fixed pin toward a tight 5.9+ squeeze chimney. The climbing from the belay to the top of the squeeze chimney will protect with natural gear placements. The first bolt will be clip-able from a straddling position atop the chimney. Once standing a high clip will protect crux moves to a jug. There is a good #2 Camelot placement here, but it will be optional since you will want to clip as high as you can from this hold to continue through more crux moves. At the 5th bolt you will turn the lip of the extremely steep part. Step left to a stance and possibly a rest. A balancing traverse left leads to some holds that arch back right and up to the anchor. The exposure and position on this line are nothing short of spectacular.
Description of the approach. Including approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails leading to the climb and condition of the trail, and if there is a durable surface such as rock. Pictures of the approach are required.
The easiest approach is to reverse the descent trail to the West Bench. Follow the climber access trail through the Satellite boulders. When you enter the talus below the North face, a signed trail turns left to the East bench (the start of the standard East face route), keep right and head up stairs and switchbacks until you reach the West bench. The staging area is the flat rocky area a few feet North of where the standard rappel route lands.
Description of the descent, if different than the approach. Including approximate distance from the designated trail system, existing “social” or undesignated trails and condition of the trail, and if there is a durable surface such as rock. Pictures of the descent, if different than the approach are required.
Lowering or rappelling from the anchor will reach the ground (70 m rope may be necessary).
Description of the area at the base of the climb. Including existing levels of soil compaction, existence of a durable surface such as rock, and existing soil erosion. Pictures of the area at the base of the climb are required.
The staging area at the base of this route is mostly solid rock.
Has all reconnaissance work that can be reasonably done, short of placing any hardware, been done? Has the route been top roped? Is there loose rock? Is it extremely overhanging?
All reasonable reconnaissance has been done. There is no significant loose rock or cleaning required. Most of the moves have been top roped, but due to the extremely overhanging nature it hasn’t seen a complete ascent.
Another great looking route for The Third Flatiron. Approval recommended.