K00kEEz and KrEEm, 5.12+

/in , /by

W Face of the Slab
Application date: 3/15/09

Information from the applicant:
The proposed route is on the West face of the Slab and is located approximately 40 feet right of the existing climb S00krEEm, and 50 feet left of the Whipping Post.  It climbs straight up the maroon, tan, and grey rock.

Length:            Approximately 90 feet in length.
Name:              K00kEEz and KrEEm
Rating:                        5.13a
Protection: 12 bolts plus a two-bolt anchor

The route has been red-pointed on toprope and thoroughly inspected for best choice of protection.  The route does not offer traditional/natural gear placements and it is recommended that bolts/hangers be used for protection. Bolt locations have been marketed with white chalk (~1-inch circles) and are shown in red on the attached photo. There is also a pair of in situ (but hangerless) bolts right where the route finishes, indicating someone must have drilled these anchors 20 years ago, before the bolting ban; these are marked in green on the photo. The climb showed no signs of activity other than these two bolts.

The proposal is to use 12 bolts plus a 2-bolt anchor. First ascentionist wishes to leave the existing anchors (placed before the ban) where they are, but replace them with ½-inch stainless-steel hardware. The accompanying photo indicates bolt locations.

Route Description:
The climb begins on overhang terrain for the first 3 bolts, with the technical crux on thin crimps turning the lip, to reach the fourth bolt. More difficult face climbing follows until the angle begins to ease off. This slabbier climbing leads to a final roof (and 2 more clips), with another crux (5.12) to the existing anchors.  The rock quality is excellent in general with an iron-hard veneer. The climb would then have 10 bolts total up the lower face, and two out the final bulge.

The route offers varied, outstanding climbing on nearly perfect stone without compromising any existing routes or adding impact to the crag base.  It is accessed via the same approach trail as Just Another Boy’s Climb, Family Man, Boys with Power Toys and S00krEEm.  The staging area – a talusy area at the base of the cliff – would not experience additional impact from the route.

FHRC Overview of the application: Complete
Voting Results: Approved
OSMP Decision: Approved

PUBLIC COMMENTS:

I am in favor of the fixed hardware proposal pertaining to the proposed new route “K00kEEz & KrEEm” on The Slab.

I have hiked up and looked at “k00kEEz and KrEEm”.  The route is an independet line on quality rock, and looks to be a great addition to an amazing climbing area!  I vote yes on this application.