Film Noir, 5.12c/d
NW Face of the Slab
Application date: 3/15/09
Information from the applicant:
The proposed route is on the northwest face of the Slab and begins 15 feet right of Just Another Boys Climb. It climbs an independent line and finishes at a natural end spot at the very top of the wall. The route is approximately 95 feet long.
Length: approximately 95 feet.
Name: Film Noir
Rating: 5.12 c/d
Protection: 14 protection bolts and a 2-bolt anchor
Route Description:
This route climbs an independent and aesthetic line on generally solid rock up a prominent black streak in the middle of the Slab’s northwest face. It starts on the moderate slab apron right of Just Another Boys Climb. 5.7 climbing past the first bolt (20 feet up) leads to a 5.10 bulge at bolts 2 and 3. The angle eases for a few moves, leading to another bulge and a 5.11a/b crux at bolts 5 and 6. Again the angle eases for a few moves, allowing a rest and a 7th clip before confronting the route’s crux at bolts 8 and 9. From here, the climbing stays sustained — with multiple 5.11 and 5.11+ cruxes — and gently overhanging until the anchors. From the final jug, at the lip of the wall and with the 14th bolt at your feet, it will be possible to reach up and clip the chains before mantling onto lesser-angled terrain. The top out is similar to Boys Climb, in that the most-proper free ascent involves climbing up over the lip before weighting the anchors.
This route climbs over part of an old project first attempted by Fred Knapp and Bret Ruckman in 1989, with three bolts leading rightward from Boys Climb and an anchor at the top of the wall. Knapp and Ruckman’s rightmost bolt lies between the 12th and 13th bolt proposed here, and will need to be removed if Film Noir is approved. Their old bolted anchor lies about six feet right of where Film Noir, the logical route on this part of the wall, tops out; applicant proposes removing this anchor (Film Noir was toproped off gear) and installing a new one.
The lower half of the climb, which negotiates two bulges with slabby/rampy terrain below each, needs 7 bolts to eliminate the possibility of decking on the respective slabs. The headwall also has 7 bolts — about the same as the neighboring Boy’s Climb, which has 6 bolts and 2 pins.
This is an excellent, independent route on solid rock, climbing up the prominent and aesthetic black streak right of Boy’s Climb. There is an existing climber trail to the base of the route, and the staging area is the flat, piney bench used for Boy’s Climb, Family Man, s00krEEm, and Boys with Power Toys – i.e., no new impact to the crag base will occur.
The climb takes the best line on this panel of the wall, at the top straightening out the abandoned Knapp/Ruckman project, and does not encroach on any existing routes. There is no possibility of reliable natural gear throughout, making bolts the best and only lead-protection option.
FHRC Overview of the application: Complete
Voting Results: Approved
OSMP Decision: Approved
PUBLIC COMMENTS:
I am in favor of the fixed hardware proposal pertaining to the proposed new route “Film Noir” on The Slab.
I have hiked up and looked at “Film Noir”. The route is an independet line on quality rock, and looks to be a great addition to an amazing climbing area! I vote yes on this application.
I support the addition of Film Noir to the North Face of The Slab as specified in the application. This section of the cliff has great climbing and has quickly become a destination onto itself in the Flatirons due to the high concentration of quality climbs. This route does not encroach on the adjacent lines.
