The Slab, North Face
Application date: 10/3/08
Information from the applicant:
The proposed route is on the north face of The Slab and begins about 30 feet right of Just Another Boy’s Climb, and 15 feet left of the newer (spring 2008) route Family Man. It climbs an independent line and finishes at a natural end spot, atop a buttress below a large hanging flake where the wall’s angle eases off. The route is approximately 75 feet long and the application is for 9 or 10 bolts; it has been toproped at 5.12a/b.
The proposed route climbs an initial slab at 5.8/5.9 past 2 bolts up to an overhang, which goes at 5.11 b/c; three bolts will protect this overhanging section. Here the route moves up and right along a narrow ledge at 5.7. There is a good finger-sized crack that would take a solid piece of gear to protect this middle section, but it would be the only natural gear on the pitch. The applicant says he’d prefer to use a bolt, since the Slab is primarily a sport cliff. There is some precedent for mixed bolts/gear climbs on the Slab: the upper hand crack on Just Another Boys Climb protects with multiple cams, and you can put in a #3 Camalot (optional) before the final bolt on Undertow. In either case on the proposed climb, you’d want either the cam or a bolt on this easier section to protect against ground fall.
The upper section will require 4 more protection bolts to the anchor. The crux, 5.12a/b, will be at the last bolt. The last two bolts will be spaced fairly closely (within five feet of each other), both to adequately protect the crux moves and to allow climbers to hangdog through with little trouble. A two-bolt anchor will be located in solid rock just below a large hanging flake.
The climb takes the best line on this panel of the wall and does not encroach on any existing routes. The moves are more facey and vertical than some of the other climbs on the Slab. There is an existing climber trail to the base of the route, and the staging area is the flat, piney bench used for Boy’s Climb, Family Man, and Boys with Power Toys – i.e., no new impact to the crag base will occur.
FHRC Overview of the application: Approved
Voting Results: Approved
OSMP Decision: Approved
Please accept this application.
My vote is yes.
yes to the route. For this route, I vote yes to fully bolted the route. No trad gear needed.
A vote for yes. OK either way – fully bolted or with the one piece – but I think it will have more character with the gear.
yes – all bolts
Yes, drill it.
Drill it before it gets the children. yes!!!!!
Yes, Great looking line.
Looks like a good route. I vote yes on this one.
looks good. yes.
Yes, use the gear when possible
do it, now
I vote yes, using bolts and gear.
Yes, looks fantastic.
Yes, the only problem I have with gear in this case is someone may not know you need a piece, go for it and fall, and that would suck.
Nice line. Please drill it.