sookrEEm, 5.13b
The Slab, North Face
Application date: 10/3/08
Information from the applicant:
The proposed route is on the North Face of the Slab and starts approximately 20 feet right of Boys with Power Toys. The climb moves up a face, to bulging rock, to a hanging slab. A final roof and easier slab take you to existing anchors (installed before the bolting ban, along with two directional bolts) about 20 feet diagonally right, and up, from the Power Toys anchor bolts. The route is 85 feet in length and goes at 5.13b. It has been redpointed on toprope and thoroughly inspected for best choice of protection.
The route does not offer traditional/natural gear placements and it is recommended that bolts/hangers be used for protection. Bolt locations have been marketed with white chalk (~1-inch circles). The proposal is to use 10 bolts plus a 2-bolt anchor. The accompanying photo indicates bolt locations. First ascentionist wishes to leave the existing anchors and top directional bolt where they are, but replace them with ½-inch stainless-steel hardware, as well as move the lower directional bolt about three feet left, where it will be easier to clip. These two bolts will comprise two of the 10 proposed clips. Existing bolts are marked in green on the photo, while red are the proposed new clips.
The route starts out with the two bolts of 5.11 face climbing to a bulging headwall of purple stone riddled with faint corners. Five bolts of continuous climbing (5.13) take you through this terrain, which eases toward 5.12 as you near the hanging slab. A small rest below the finishing roof allows some pause and a clip, then 5.12- climbing over the roof and a small crux standing up take you to 5.9 climbing (final bolt) to finish.
The rock quality is excellent, and the route doesn’t compromise any existing routes or add impact to the crag base – it’s accessed via the same approach trail as Just Another Boy’s Climb, Family Man, and Boys with Power Toys. The staging area – a flat place in the trees — is the same as for these climbs, as well.
FHRC Overview of the application: Approved
Voting Results: Approved
OSMP Decision: Approved
PUBLIC COMMENTS:
Bolt It!!
This is a beautiful independent line and would be a great addition to The Slab.
Please accept this application.
looks amazing boys! I would love to see this get bolted. Vote yes for this route!
Looks great. Yes.
I was just up there a couple of days ago and looked at the pending line. I think the rock quality at the Slab is some of the best in the flatirons and more routes going up are welcome.
Yes to the route and all bolts.
yes
Yes, and yes.
looks sweet, hook it up – yes!
Flatirons Resurgence!!! Drill
Yes, what a good looking piece of rock.
Nice addition to the cliff. When will the bolting begin?
looks perfect. yes.
yes please be careful with your comments (above). This process is being allowed because of hard work between climbers and land managers. Sloppiness is what got us here in the 1st place. thanks
great rock, perfect setting, completely agree…
I vote yes for this route. It is a great line with sustained climbing and clean rock. More importantly the line represents the fact that climbers are willing to wait twenty years to finish aborted projects and do respect the OSMP rules and regulations.
Drill baby, Drill
Yes.
Please bolt this, it looks like a great line!
Looks nice, bolt it
