The proposed route addition would be for a new first bolt on Street Hassle (5.12c), Frankenstein’s Castle, Dinosaur Mountain. The climb at present has four bolts, the first one being 20-plus feet off the ground. This new bolt would bring the total to five bolts.
At the time of the first ascent, the applicant and his friend, who established the climb, thought the opening crux sequence should just go as a boulder problem. However, repeat ascents have almost invariably taken advantage of a long stick clip or climbed between the tree and the rock (scary) to pre-clip the first bolt, as the crux comes eight feet off the ground on very insecure, small holds. The applicant recalls that “We didn’t really know what we were doing, and being young didn’t mind taking multiple ground falls off the bouldery start. If we had known better we would have bolted it correctly.” When one stands below the route, it is obvious that the first bolt is simply missing.”The applicant says he would have added a first bolt long ago if not for the bolting ban (through 2003) in the Flatirons and feels that this aspect of the route, if not really unsafe, is not in keeping with other (sport) routes in the immediate area.
FHRC Overview of the application: Complete
Voting Results: Approved
OSMP Decision: Pending